Oblivion ??? ….. Bolivia !!!!

I’m starting this the morning of August 10 — Referendum Revocatorio de Mandato Popular 2008 –

IT’S WEIRD OUT THERE !!!! I just returned from a walk to the supermercado. Everything is closed !! There are no cars on the road. You must have a special permit to drive today. The usual Sunday brunch restaurants are closed. There are more people out strolling - probably going to vote - than I’ve ever seen. The streets have been taken over by cyclists taking advantage of the suddenly safe streets. The quiet is very loud !!!

The Canadian Embassy sent this out:

Travellers should evaluate their travel plans and personal security measures due to continuing political tensions linked to referendums on regional autonomy. Referendums took place on May 4, 2008, for the Department of Santa Cruz, on June 1 for the Departments of Beni and Pando, and on June 22 for the Department of Tarija. Prefectoral elections took place on June 29 in the Department of Chuquisaca (Sucre). Although voting was largely conducted peacefully, public protests and violent incidents occurred. This pattern may continue up to and during a recall referendum, which is scheduled for August 10, 2008.

From Thursday, August 7, at midnight until Monday, August 11, at noon, the sale and consumption of alcoholic beverages will be suspended. Carrying firearms on the day of the referendum is also illegal. Canadians travelling or residing in Bolivia should also exercise personal security measures in areas surrounding polling booths.

Beginning Saturday, August 9 at midnight, through Sunday, August 10 at midnight, no private vehicles or public transportation will be allowed on the road without prior authorization from the Electoral Court. Domestic flights will be cancelled, but international flights will still be operating. Transportation services from the airport to cities in Bolivia will be limited to hotel shuttles.

Major demonstrations and strikes addressing various grievances occur regularly in the capital and in other cities, and may lead to violent incidents. Road blockades are common during times of protest, affecting transportation and limiting access to services and amenities. Canadians should avoid demonstrations at all times and not attempt to pass through roadblocks, and they should also monitor local news reports.

Needless to say, there was a lot of apprehension in advance of the voting. The votes were a face-off between Morales and a group of right-wing governors who oppose his plans for socialist constitutional and land reforms and are fighting back by demanding autonomy for their provinces and a bigger share of windfall natural gas revenues.

Despite the drinking ban, all the sidewalk cafes were still serving on Saturday. One reporter wrote: And here is where the policy of “don’t drink and vote” provides a useful metaphor for Bolivian politics as a whole. On one hand there are the official rules, and then there are the way things really are. If you want to understand Bolivia, it is important to sort out the difference.

But as expected (by some) the President won - and won big !!! Originally elected in 2005 with 54%, the vote this time was an overwhelming 67% in favour. The problem is that the vote was split along geographic location - eastern lowlands vs western Andean highlands; ethnic background - Spanish vs Indigenous; and, by class - rich vs poor. The president is expected to move swiftly to seek approval for a new draft constitution that would redistribute wealth from the country’s hydrocarbons industry, introduce land reforms and open the way for him to run for a second term.

Now, there are negotiations between the national government and the re-elected opposition Prefects. Voters in those four states ratified their governors, who have been pushing for greater autonomy from the dictates of Morales, the socialist president. At issue is who will control the country’s huge natural gas reserves in the east _ the reserves are the second largest in Latin America _ and who will decide the fate of large tracts of farmland in the east that Morales wants to seize and give to indigenous supporters. “There was no agreement on the substance of the conflict issues. The only point of agreement was that the talks are necessary.”

The latest is that the opposition Governors are calling for a general strike this coming week. Stay tuned. In fact, five districts held general strikes Tuesday. The Prefect of Santa Cruz has called Morales a criminal and described government ministers as “a pack of dogs.” It’s been pretty quiet in Cochabamba, where Morales won big. The Prefect of Cochabamba stated before Sunday’s vote that if he lost, he would NOT recognize the result claiming the vote to be unconstitutional. He didn’t hold the same opinion if he won. He lost. Then last Tuesday he changed his mind, not wanting a repeat of last year’s violence in which 3 were killed and over 130 were injured, and resigned. Whew !

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And now about the parades…..I’ve been to five parades in 12 days !!

Wednesday, August 6 was Independence Day.

On the day before, ALL the schools in the Cochabamba area sent students to march in the Schools’ Parade. The majority of the schools send groups that reminded me of half-time shows of U.S. college football teams — Marching bands of baton-twirling majorettes, trumpets and tubas, and drum corps. Tito’s Place showed off our skill in being able to distinguish left from right, and march in relative unison. My class was included at the last minute, and we spent much of Monday practising marching around and around and around and around the concrete soccer pitch. Only two of my kids ended up showing up. Apparently they were told that they didn’t have to, after the hours of practice. Huh ? The “faculty” came dressed ready for a wedding (or funeral). Not having that level of clothing here, I opted for my new Bolivian flag tee shirt, and a Tito’s Place baseball cap. The boss let me know I was NOT welcome to parade with the rest of the staff, so I walked along side of the kids making sure they kept their lines and rows straight - and laughed at my jokes.

Military parade on Wednesday — army with tanks, alpine patrol skiiers, navy (protecting Lake Titicaca), troops wearing camouflage ( sorry, I could see them !!!) I couldn’t help thinking that I’d be seeing many of them again with their guns at the ready, and not parade posture, in connection with the Referendum. Whew ! That hasn’t happen yet.

The Sunday before I went out with Fred. When I saw the Cola-Cola banners spanning the Prado, I knew a parade was imminent. Our way home was detoured by the first parade of the week. A dozen small Quechuan & Aymaran groups were drumming and playing traditional flutes and pipes up the street. It wasn’t the A-list bands and didn’t attract a large crowd, but I throughly enjoyed the spirit and enthusiasm they put into their music and dancing.

Last Thursday, my friend Ruth, the 4th 3rd grade teacher, who has been instrumental in helping me develop a bit of a social life, invited me to join her and her friends for the Urkupina Festival parade in Quillacolla ( a suburb about 10 Ks away). Called ” Fiesta de la integracion” it is an annual tribute to The Virgin. On Saturday, hoards of believers climb the Calvario - a local hill - where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared. With the amount of beer consumed, I’m hardly surprised. (I hope that’s not too irreverent.)

The parade was similar to the Carnaval parade Lani & I attended back in February - but without the water balloons and canned foam. The groups of dancers were outfitted in the most ornate costumes/uniforms. And the dancing was amazing ! The music and rhythms are pretty simple, but the dancing in unison is such a treat to watch. Ruth is in a Caporales group and will be performing in another festival in a couple of months. I can’t wait.

For some reason (Ruth said it had to do with bribing the municipal officials), they chose the narrowest of streets. The crowds and the dancers interfered with each other. At times, squads of Policia tried to clear the way for the dancing groups. They were often greeted with loud jeers and occasionally thrown cans of beer. When this happened they charged indiscriminately in the direction the can came from - pushing innocent bystanders on the way to the unidentified culprits. I got my first taste of pepper spray !! I’ll be happy never to get a second. And, I stopped taking pictures when I saw one of the over-zealous cops eying me. Even with a “few” beers, I was able to exhibit good judgment !!

After the parade, my new friends and I went for street meat - cow’s heart kabobs and sausages ! Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.

In all, it was a great taste of Bolivian culture and custom.

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Then, at school on Friday morning, out of left field, I was given a promotion - Teacher-Liason to the Administration !! HUH ??? And offered an “office” job for next year. WTF ???!!! It reminded me of the line from the Godfather: “Keep your friends close, and your enemies closer.” I’d thought I was more of a pain than anything else….but apparently not !! I am giving the possibility of returning for another year verrrrrry serious consideration. Anybody want a job here ? I seem to have an “in”.

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Listening to Q107 every day - and hearing the “Let’s go to the EX” ads - makes me wonder where the winter has gone !!! Many of my friends will be back in their schools in the next week or two, and will be back in the grind two weeks today…. except for Gayle & Joyce - formerly of Maurice Cody !!! Congratulations to you two, too.

I hope everyone enjoys the remaining days of summer , and vacation.

Hasta pronto !!

I’ve been back “home” in Cochabamba for over 3 weeks already. My travels are becoming a distant memory. I hope anyone out there enjoyed reading my rambles and viewing the photos from my touring. I took almost 1500 shots - aren’t digital cameras wonderful !!!! A couple each of Machu Picchu and Iguazu Falls can also be seen on: www.tripadvisor.com (I’m Joel60). Anyone wondering where in the world to visit won’t be disappointed coming to South America. I still have several destinations in Bolivia on my list before I come home.

And so, things have returned to normal. The coldest part of the winter has passed. The days continue to be spring-like and the nights are getting more comfortable. I’ve been able to shed a few layers of sleepwear and socks, and don’t have to speed through getting dried and dressed in the mornings.

I was happy to get back to my friends here, and kids at school. They are the best part of being here. Because there were “extra” days of holiday, the Boss called everyone in for the last week for a series of Professional Development sessions. She didn’t want us to have too much paid vacation ! When I returned, she gave me a complete summary of the topics and important points covered. In the session on lesson planning she said things like: “Make detailed lesson plans but don´t rely on them, and be ready to abandon them if you get off topic and onto something interesting.” ….”Make sure you stick to the Global Plan, because you have to finish the texts, but don´t assign homework in order to stick to the schedule. The parents are complaining.” There were other presentations on Evaluation, and Teaching Reading. She neglected to tell me she used the materials I had brought and given to her for those. She told me how wonderful the sessions were and how well received they were by “everybody”. I asked all the teachers I know here and have yet to find “anybody”. It’s great to be back !!!

The public school teachers are back on strike, leaving us about the school operating. The other “American” schools follow the North American schedule and won’t be returning to class for another few weeks.

I’m enjoying going to the dentist here. The state of my teeth has been in need of much repair. I’ve had a few broken fillings and crowns replaced lately. Six teeth repaired, and a cleaning and I’m almost up to $400 in charges !!! I hope my dental plan will recognize the work done here, which would reduce my costs by half. At these prices it’s worth coming down here for the work — the vacation would be free.

Things are going to get very interesting here next week. Wednesday is Independence Day, when everyone will be united celebrating - parades, fireworks, lots of drinking … then next Sunday the 10th is the National Recall Referendum which will likely divide the country in two. The division seems to be along racial lines. The (white) Spanish community who are generally the wealthy half wants to vote “No” and remove President Evo Morales and his MAS ( Movement Toward Socialism) party from office. Since his election almost 3 years ago, he has carried out his promise to introduce a new constitution, which would give greater rights and opportunities ($$$) to the indigenous people ( Quechuan, Aymaran, and almost 3 dozen smaller groups). These represent the “Si” vote. There was supposed to be a national referendum on this new constitution, but it was cancelled as four of the districts started holding their own autonomy votes, in May and June. The power struggle between Morales, the country’s first indigenous president, and a group of pro business oriented governors - including the wealthier, gas-producing regions in the east of Latin America’s poorest nation - demanding more autonomy for their regions has forced him to put on hold some key reforms, chiefly his plan to give more power and state revenue to the indigenous majority from which he comes.

Apparently, the original rules of this vote state that the President and each of the District Prefects up for recall, must achieve the same percentage of the vote that they were last elected by. Thus, Evo must get 53.7% to remain President. This, apparently, was the first time a President was actually elected with a majority. With over a dozen political parties represented here, the Prefects actually have to achieve votes (much) less than 50%. One clipping I saw recently said: Only Cochabamba prefect Manfred Reyes, who last year challenged Morales to test his support at the polls but is now reneging on his ultimatum, is opposing the electoral battle. As an opposition prefect in the heartland of M.A.S.’s support base, Reyes knows his position is one of the most at risk.

Each side seems to have taken up the question of the Constitutionality of the vote (depending on how they projected the results, I guess), but with 4 out of 5 of the judges of the National Election Court recently resigning, a 3 vote quorum is impossible and the vote will proceed. One reporter here has commented how the “rules” for the vote change every day. He writes: The latest is that the elections officials now seem to think that the vote should go forward – a relief to know that all that public and private money spent on each side’s propaganda isn’t going to waste – but with a few modifications. Now each of the governors would either be in or out based on winning or losing a regular 50% majority instead of the complicated ´depends-on-what-you-won-with´ formula previously planned. President Morales, however, would still benefit from the old rules, letting him win even if his vote drops just below 50%. It seems to be a formula based on a rule of ¨whatever it takes to assure that everyone stays where they are.¨ How this fits in to legal and constitutional requirements is anyone’s guess. And these are just Thursday’s rules. They will likely change a few times more before the actual vote.

Also at issue is the location of the National Capital - La Paz has been the site of the National Assembly since the civil war of 1899, but a large segment want to see Sucre be restored as the Capital. Moreover, no one knows what will be the definitive reaction of the majority of the Bolivian people and also of the armed forces that, in Bolivia, have had strong participation in political activities and in some cases when the republican institutions have been threatened by communist conspiracies. Can’t wait for August 11.

One of the best things I’ve read, in writing this, comes from the President: “When some jurist tells me: ‘Evo, you are making a juridical mistake, what you are doing is illegal’, well, I do it even if it is illegal. Afterwards I tell the lawyers: ‘if it is illegal, you make it legal, that’s what you have studied for,’” added the ruler.

I’ve seen more marches and assemblies around the city and have missed many more. I have heard of blockados within the city, and have read of those traveling by bus from Cochabamba to Sucre having to get off the buses, carry their baggage through the blockade, and find a ride on the other side. Fred’s wife has made me promise to stock up on canned foods, pasta and rice, in anticipation that the situation will get worse before it gets better…

I’ll be home when I run out of tuna.

Next Saturday will be 200 days here. I haven’t started counting the days until I leave.

Hope everyone is having a good summer. I hear it’s been a little damp up there.

Before I left Toronto and thought about where I’d go for this holiday - I had The World’s Most Dangerous Road, Machu Picchu, the Nazca Lines, and Iguazu Falls on my list. Having knocked off the first three I had mixed feelings as I headed to Puerto Iguazu - that this was my last destination, but that this was going to be another incredible visit.

I was met at the airport by Miguel, from the tour company. He outlined the plan for the next couple of days and offered to arrange for a tour that afternoon to a mine in a nearby town. I thought that was a different sort of thing to do. My driver/guide, Anibal, picked me up and we were on our way. The drive to Wanda reminded me of a summer’s drive to Haliburton. The hills, the curves and the greenery all could have been at home, except for the occasional palm trees. The mine produced agates, quartz and amethyst. The tour through the tunnels was pretty cool, with deposits of crystals left in the walls for the visual effect. Not surprisingly, the tour ended at the gift shop with various gems in their natural form, and different qualities of cut and polished gems for sale. Something for your wife ? No, sorry. Your girlfriend ? No, sorry. Your Mother ? No, sorry. I did end up buying a piece of natural amethyst that was the purple-est I’ve ever seen. Anibal gave me the name of and directions to a reasonably priced restaurant, in walking distance from my hotel, for a good steak dinner. That ended up being a good tip.

Tuesday Miguel picked me about 7:45 am for the tour of the Argentinian side of Iguazu Falls. We were a small group, but I was the only non-Spanish speaker. The others were all from various Latin American countries. It was a 20 minute bus ride to Iguazu National Park. Just inside the gate I was treated to the sight of a toucan flying by… had a sudden craving for Froot Loops !! We continued to the little station for the first train of the day. Being a protected area, we rode through the sub-tropical jungle…. not a wax museum in sight. Unlike Niagara, the Foz here are spread over a wide area with numerous vantage points - not just one. Off the train and a walk along a bridge spanning the Rio Iguazu to the first vista - Garganta del Diablo (The Devil’s Throat). The guide book says, “People who doubt the theory that ‘negative ions generated by waterfalls make people happier’ might have to reconsider after visiting the Iguazu Falls.” WOW !!! The viewing platform is right at the edge of the cataract, and in places you can stand right over the edge with the falling water right under your feet. The roar of the water, the clouds of mist and the incredible scenery were absolutely amazing !! WOW !!! It’s a much narrower horseshoe than Niagara, but with different cliffs at various levels, in places. Brazil is right across the canyon. We left that spot after a while to re-board the train and a short ride to start of the Circuito Superior (Upper Trail). This pathway led along the upper cliff to different falls with names: Salto Dos Hermanas (The Two Sisters); Salto Chico (The Boy); Salto Eva; Salto San Martin; Salto Rivadavia; and, others. Each viewing platform provided another picturesque close-up of the rushing waters, as well as panoramas of the more distant falls. WOW !!

Then you go down a level and follow the Circuito Inferior, which takes you right up to the foot of the falls, we saw from above, and gets you close enough to almost reach out and touch the shower of water. WOW !! The spray at the bottom does make you appreciate your rain-wear, if you have it. Just as it was at Machu Picchu, with every few steps, it seemed to be a different perspective, and I took well over a hundred pictures, which on reviewing seem to be much the same. The beauty and majesty of this place made me question how Iguazu Falls is not on the list of Wonders of the World. Here and Zermatt, Switzerland, site of the Matterhorn, are the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen in person.

The highlight of highlights was the speedboat ride against the rapids that got so close to the foot of the falls that it was impossible to keep my eyes open with all the spray. WOW !! There were two different approaches to two of the major saltos, and we did each twice. The smart people had come prepared and were stripped down to bathing suits. I was completely soaked, and completely thrilled about it. We then had a high-speed run with the current over the rapids and downriver a while. WOW !!! And the ride was over. After climbing back up from the river, we boarded a tour truck which winded its way through the jungle, with a guide pointing out significant flora and fauna on the way back to the Visitors’ Centre. WHAT A DAY !!!!

Back at the hotel and dried off, I got a call from Miguel saying, that because Wednesday was a Brazilian national holiday, I wouldn’t be able to get the necessary visa to allow me over the border for the second portion of the tour. It took about a second to decide that I’d take the same tour again tomorrow. That turned out to be a wise move, as Tuesday’s overcast cleared up and the sky was a beautiful clear blue - and the real bonus was the rainbows in the mist at every lookout. WOW !!!! Another hundred or so pictures of the same views, but in the sunshine. This was such a fantastic day and way to end off my incredible journey.

I returned to Monday’s restaurant for my final Argentinian steak dinner and wine, savouring the last moments of this trip.

Thursday was traveling day…. five airports and three flights - Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires, change airports, onto Santa Cruz, Bolivia, and finally “home” to Cochabamba with a few days to spare before returning to school.

It’s now already been a week since I got back, and the whole trip is starting to become a distant memory - but what a memory it is !!

July 3rd - Happy Birthday Sara !!!!

Another early wake-up call to catch a cab to get to the airport for my morning flight to Buenos Aires. The ride to the airport became a bit of an adventure. Besides the morning rush-hour traffic, my cab driver found a route that avoided the expressway I had taken 3 days earlier, instead finding construction, and a detour to lead through the city centre. I got to see many sights I had missed, and the 20 minute ride lasted over an hour. At one point the driver pulled out his ID and tried to explain something to me. I just answered, “aeropuerto ahora !!” pointing to my watch. With the airport terminal finally in sight, he stopped just short of the entrance and put my backpack on the curb. Now I figured what he was saying - that he didn’t have access to the airport. He still wanted to get paid, but I kept repeating, ” Ni terminal, ni dinero !! ” We exchanged choice words in our respective languages. I put on my pack and had a 10 minute hike to the terminal. I made the 10:30 flight with some time to spare. This was a 4+ hour flight with a loss of 2 more hours, going from the Pacific to the Atlantic. After getting my bag and getting through Immigration I took a bus that first took me to a downtown terminal, and then a second bus directly to my hotel. The whole drive took almost an hour and a half - it’s a BIG city !! It was dark by the time I got settled in my room.

After getting assurances about the safety of the neighbourhood and directions to a main street, I set out in search of an Argentinian steak and wine. All I found open were a couple of corner cafes, and had to settle for a ham & cheese sandwich and a beer.

The hotel gave me a good touring map of the city and together with the guide book I went over my ideas to see the city with Pablo, at the front desk. He was extremely helpful and together we came up with a good three day touring plan. Friday was devoted to Centro - the city centre ( but I bet you figured that out).

Buenos Aires is also a big, civilized city. There are wide main commercial streets - 6 to 8 lanes of two-way traffic. Between these are 5 or 6 one-way residential streets. The traffic seems to move quite well. The stoplights go from green to orange to red, as you would expect; but also go from red to orange to green - “on your mark, get set, go !” The only suggestion I’d make to the city fathers & mothers would be to pass “Poop and Scoop” laws. I’d have been able to enjoy the sights much more if I hadn’t had to watch every step. The older, more traditional apartment buildings have the most attractive balconies. I started a picture theme of these.

Pablo had warned me of the planned protests in front of the Congreso de la Nacion. I, of course, headed straight there but arrived well ahead of the crowds. The police presence and barracades were firmly in place, as were tents set up representing different groups in the Plaza across the street. I walked and hung around a while, then proceeded on my way. I got to Avenue 9 de Julio - called the world’s widest avenue. The main feature is the Obelisco ( a miniature Washington Monument ) in the Plaza de la Republica. Near there I found Av. Lavalle, a pedestrian mall of shops and restaurants. This intersects Avenue Florida the more famous walking street. Near one end is the Galerias Pacifico (Eaton Centre) with the high class stores and incredible paintings on the ceilings that are reminiscent of the Sistene Chapel. Way cool. Not wanting to settle for a sandwich again, I went for a late afternoon steak dinner and a glass (or two) of wine. I was surprised at how busy the restaurant was at that hour. I enjoyed the long walk back to the hotel.

Saturday, I went in a different direction - to the Recoleta district. The guide book calls this the “plushest …ritzy” neighbourhood. The main attraction here is the Cementerio de la Recoleta “where, in death as in life, generations of Argentina’s elite rest in ornate splendor.” Some of the monuments are incredible, decorated with statues or intricately sculpted facades. The highlight here is the Duarte family tomb - Evita’s grave.

Outside the cemetery is a Cultural Centre with another artisan/craft market. I bought a watercolour painting of a couple dancing the Tango. I found another grill for lunch/supper for another steak and wine dinner, and walked home.

On Sundays there is an antique market at Plaza Dorrego in the “Tango District” - San Telmo. The streets in the vicinity are closed to traffic with more artisans selling their goods on the street. Closer to the Plaza, there were street entertainers attracting crowds - pantomimists, various bands and musicians, and Tango dancers. At one intersection I double-took when I saw a moustached bicycle rider waiting at the red light… now I know what I look like !! Farther along, the antiques took up several blocks. I spent several hours here trying to take it all in. Then I took a roundabout route back to the hotel to see Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada - the pink coloured presidential palace with the famous balcony where Evita hung out. I’m not sure which is the famous balcony, but I saw them all, with “Don’t Cry For Me, Argentina” playing non-stop in my head. Another late afternoon steak before heading back. This night I had a ticket for the Tango show at Senor Tango, a big nightclub. The show was spectacular -a Las Vegas-style production- and the dancers were incredible. It was a nice end to my visit here. Buenos Aires would be my second choice to find a future(?) teaching job.

Onto the grand finale (final magnífico) …..

Monday, the 30th started with another early wake-up call to get to the airport in time for my 8:00 am plane to Lima. The flight was only about an hour but the scenery out the window, over the snow-capped Andes, was magnificent. As we cleared the mountains and approached Lima, the sky became cloudy. It was the first day that hadn’t been sunny. I took a cab to my hotel and went to sleep once settled…. too many early wake up calls lately. I had previously decided that I wasn’t going to worry about seeing the sites of Lima. After nap time I went out to wander. My first impression was that this was a big, busy modern city, with lots of familiar landmarks - Starbucks, Dunkin’ Donuts, McDonald’s, KFC, Taco Bell, Pizza Hut. The crowded streets and sidewalks could have been anywhere. Even the large red and white Peruvian flags are just like ours, without the Maple Leaf. I looked in a lot of handicrafts and souvenir stores, in between Internet stops. I walked through Kennedy Park with its very unflattering statue of JFK, to another artisans’ market in the centre of the park. Had a burger & fries in a Peruvian restaurant - successfully resisting McDonald’s, and deciding to pass up on the Cuy. And another early night…

Happy Canada Day - July 1, and a 3:15 AM wake up call to be able to catch the 4:30 bus to Ica. zzzzz !!

I got dropped off at Las Dunas Hotel and Resort and was greeted by Ronny, my host and guide for the day. This was a 5 star place & I wondered what I was doing there ? Well, I was waiting for the clouds to lift so I could take my flight over the Nazca Plains to view the ancient line drawings. I got to sit in the hotel’s business centre, on the Internet, waiting for the sun. Ronny finally came and got me - time to go. It was mostly sunny with some clouds, but perfectly fine for flying. The landing strip was a 10 minute ride away and had a short wait until take-off. The plane was a six-seater and I got to sit in the co-pilot’s seat !! This was the smallest airplane I’d ever been on. After take off it was about a 20 minute trip to the Lines. The pilot tilted the wings as we flew over each design, first to one side and then the other so all of us could get a good view. The lines are not as distinct in person as they are in the enhanced photos of the postcards, guide books or the Indiana Jones movie. I had trouble locating some at first, but saw everything I supposed to - lots of trapezoids, parallel and converging lines; and, biomorphs of a spider, hummingbird, heron, condor, tree, parrot, monkey, hands, dog, and an astronaut. It was a very exciting flight that last about 90 minutes. That these are only identifiable from the air makes me like the “Chariots of the Gods” theory - ancient astronauts visited the Earth thousands of years ago.

Another thrill off my list !!

I returned to Las Dunas poolside for a luxurious buffet lunch and lounging by the pool waiting for my bus pick-up back to Lima. I got back around 9:00, went to Dunkin’ Donuts for a sandwich and went back to the hotel.

I took another easy-going day on that Wednesday, enjoying the “civilization” of Lima. Morning coffee (with diesel fumes) and the Herald Tribune at Starbucks’ sidewalk cafe, lunch at KFC, and dinner at Pizza Hut. In between all that fine dining I walked, getting lost and found, visiting a couple of Internet places, touring a couple of big supermercados and more artisan/souvenir centres. Went back for King Kong on TV, with Spanish sub-titles.

If I ever come back to South American, I’d certainly return to Peru. I’ve learned of many other interesting places to visit that I didn’t know of before. My new first-choice to find different teaching job is Cuzco.

Who knows ??

The bus ride to Cuzco was a 6 hour trip, with an hour in Puno waiting for the connecting bus. At the Bolivian-Peruvian border we had to get off the bus and walk into Peru. Because I have a Bolivian identity card, I got to pay an extra 60 Bolivianos to leave Bolivia. They literally get you coming and going here.

I arrived in Cuzco around 10:30 pm and took a cab to my hotel. The driver stopped on a dark street and led me up a steep staircase and along a couple of dark alleyways. I thought I was being set up for a mugging. To my relief, at the end of a long dark hallway was an unsigned door that opened to the lobby of my hotel !! There was a lovely jungle in the courtyard that was surrounded by the rooms. Whew !!

At breakfast, I met Sonia and Patrick from Montreal, who were traveling with their boys and were a couple of days ahead of me. They offered valuable information and advice to help me plan this portion of my exploration. We met later for a most enjoyable dinner (alpaca steak) and a couple of jugs of Pisco Sour - the National Cocktail.

I signed up for a couple of tours offered by the hotel, and headed out for my free morning in Cuzco. This is a much more modern city, despite its history, and was certainly more geared to the tourist trade. Cuzco is described as a “unique combination of colonial splendor built on hefty stone foundations of the Incas… legends tell that in the 12th century, the first Inca, Manco Capac, was charged by the ancestral sun god Inti to find the qosq’o (navel of the Earth). When he discovered such a place, he founded Cuzco.” The city was later “discovered” by Francisco Pizarro and the Spanish conquistadors in 1533, and was conquered, looted and settled. Most of the Inca temples, palaces and homes were destroyed, using their foundations on which to build Spanish buildings and Catholic Churches.

It was an easy walk (downhill) to the Plaza de Armas - the main square. It is surrounded by the Iglesia de La Compania de Jesus, the Iglesia de Jesus Maria, Cuzco’s Cathedral (built on the site of Inca Viracocha’s Palace), souvenir shops, and restaurants offering 4 X 1 “happy hour” Pisco Sours. From there I set out to find the famous 12-sided stone in one of the remaining Inca walls. Here I found different primary school classes, on a field trip to practise counting to 12. I found a small artisans’ area and bought a watercolour from one of the “art students”. I had lunch in a cafe on the perimeter of the square.

The afternoon was spent on a bus tour of the city’s main sites: Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun) which shows the best Inca stonework in the city. Little else remains as the Church of Santo Domingo was built upon the foundations; The Cathedral, with its dominating painting of The Last Supper, with the main course of Cuy (roasted guinea pig). I always thought the Last Supper was a Seder meal - and my Mom never served that !! We also traveled out to Saqsaywaman (”sexy woman”). This fortress was destroyed by the Spaniards who tore down the walls to use the blocks for their own homes. Only about 20% of the original walls remain. This was the site of a deadly battle in 1536 between the Spanish and Incas. Nowadays, on the Summer Solstice, which I just missed, a huge colourful pageant - the Festival of the Sun, or Ind Raymi - is held; Tambomachay, with its natural springs (el Bano del Inca - Inca’s Bath), also believed by the Spaniards to be the Fountain of Youth; and, Pukapukara, at the beginning of the Inca Trail leading to Machu Picchu

The next day was a full tour of The Sacred Valley of the Incas. I was fortunate to sit beside Margot, originally from Ohio, who is now working for the Nature Conservancy in Belem, Brazil at the mouth of the Amazon River. Her company was the best part of this day. The morning stops were at a couple of artisan markets, the second in Pisac. Margot’s fluency in Spanish saved me a few sols at these markets. After lunch in Urubamba, we then traveled along the Vilcanota or Wilcamayu River (Sacred River) to Ollantaytambo, considered the best surviving example of Inca city planning. Steep terraces dominate this site. There are the remains of a Sun Temple, known as the Wall of the Six Monoliths. The Incas built several storehouses out of fieldstones on the hills surrounding the city. As we were leaving, a large group of students spread out over the entire site and danced in unison to the beating of a band of drums. Pretty cool. The last stop of the day was Chinchero, another Spanish colonial church built upon Inca ruins. Margot and I met for dinner and more Pisco Sours - had beef for a change.

Saturday the 28th started with a 5:00 am wake up call to catch the 6:00 am train to Aguas Caliente - the last stop before Machu Picchu. My package included transportation to and a guided tour of Machu Picchu immediately upon arrival at the train station. The crowds were incredible on the paths in, but the first view inside was quite literally, awesome. It looked just like the postcard view I’ve seen over and over, but this was real !! I must have taken hundreds of pictures of the same thing - from a couple of steps this way or that, or up a few steps or down, or a couple of minutes later - each one from a different perspective (?). The guide was the best I’ve had, leading us to all the main features, giving a succinct and entertaining explanation. After the guided tour we were free to explore independently. The place cleared out quickly after 2:00 and was much more relaxed. We were able to sit on the terraces and just contemplate the whole scene. Just before leaving, someone called “condor !!” and I was treated to the magnificent view of the great bird gliding across the sky, for almost 5 minutes before it disappeared in the distance. I returned to Aguas Caliente before dark to find my hotel and buy my admission and bus tickets for Sunday.

The first bus up the mountain leaves at 5:30 AM, in order to get to Machu Picchu for the sunrise. The line up at that time of day was incredible. I met Shraddha, with whom I walked around on Saturday. She was traveling, recovering from working on Hillary Clinton’s primary campaign. We got on the 5th or 6th bus out, and arrived inside in the pre-dawn light. I climbed to the top terrace for my vantage point and she went to climb Huayna Picchu ( the trademark hill, mistakenly thought to be Machu Picchu). Machu Picchu is actually the mountain to your back when you are looking at the “postcard” scene. It’s amazing how I could just stare at the panorama. As the sun’s rays climbed down the mountain sides, I must have taken another hundred pictures of the same scene, each one different. Once it was full daylight, I followed the marked trail and did another circuit of the site. I sat a while on a terrace, on condor watch - peacefully, but no bird. I returned to town in time for lunch, the Euro Cup final, and the 4:30 train back to Cuzco… and early to bed.

And that’s another experience off my list of things to do/see before ….

I´m really behind in my writing…. the trip is happening faster than I can keep up. I´m in Lima today for my final day in Peru (more about that later). I decided to take a “normal” day and try to get as caught up as I can. ( I’m now “home” in Cochabamba, finishing the draft I started in Lima.)

After a good night´s sleep after the bike ride, I was picked up at my hostal by my private guide and bus. I am living richer than I am, but enjoying the temporary luxury. Maybell ( or Mabel ¿¿ ) was my guide to Tiwanaku, but didn´t remember me until I showed her my photos of that trip.

Copacabana is a nice resort town on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Supposedly it has the only public beach in the country. We arrived at the hotel (4 Stars !!!) in time for lunch. I had trucha (trout) from the Lake… first time in my life that I have voluntarily ordered a fish from a menu. It was pretty good… I´ve had it again since.

The afternoon was spent touring the famous Cathedral of Virgen de Candelaria, built between 1605 and 1820. ….. It was decorated with lots of gold that the Spanish had looted from the Incas. This church houses a black Virgen de Candelaria statue carved by the Inca ruler Tupac Yupanqui’s grandson. The statue is never moved as superstition suggests a devastating flood of Lake Titicaca if it is disturbed.

Outside the Church we came across the Priest blessing the cars - Benediciones de Movilidades. The custom is to decorate a newly purchased car and take it to the Church for blessing. The Priest was splashing holy water on the engine, inside the passenger area and on the owners´heads. I asked Maybell how people deal with lemons and accidents ? She said that the owner in those cases is blamed for having an illicit love affair and is just receiving his/her just desserts. Single people having an accident, I guess are stigmatized for life ???

We continued to Cerro Calvario, a high hill that overlooks the Lake and the town. This was a very strenuous climb up stone steps that commemorated the 14 Stations of the Cross. At intervals on the climb were stone crosses to mark the significant points in Jesus´final walk through Jerusalem on that first Good Friday. I remember the actual route through the streets of the Old City of Jerusalem to be a lot easier to walk. After a lot of breath and knee stops, we reached the top (3966 meters in altitude) and were indeed treated to a spectacular view of the town and the Lake. At the top were the usual refreshment vendors, but here also were some most peculiar stands. Shelves of toy cars, miniature houses, play money, toy luggage, baby dolls and toy animals. Once you made the climb you could “ask” for your reward that would hopefully come to fruition. Had they sold Barbie dolls, I may have taken a chance. I was just glad that I had made the climb without suffering a heart attack - my Bolivian stress test.

Dinner that night was llama steak… tastes just like seasoned, grilled meat.

The next day Maybell and I took our private boat on Lake Titicaca to the Isla del Sol. An hour and a half cruise to Cha’llapampa, at the north end of the island. The number of tourist boats en route made it seem like a naval invasion.

Once on the island we proceeded along a gently climbing path to the Inca ruins at Chincana. There are no vehicles here and the ancient stone paths are the only routes for all the tourist & livestock traffic. The entire island is covered with ancient terraces that are still cultivated. The main feature at Chincana is the Palacio del Inca, a maze of stone walls and tiny doorways known as Inkanakan Utapa - said to be built by the Inca Emperor, Tupac Yupanqui. Within the labyrinth there is a small well, believed to contain sacred water with which the Incas would purify themselves. It is said that this was an Inca monastery and seminary. On the way we stopped at a huge concave shaped rock - Tiki Khar’ka (Rock of the Puma) - which is significant in the Inca creation legend as the birthplace of the Sun and the Moon. There the god-king Viracocha and the first Incas, Manco Capac and his sister/wife (???) Mama Ocllo, mystically appeared under direct orders from the Sun, and founded the Inca Empire. Across the way is the Mesa Ceremonica, which is thought to have been the site of human and animal sacrifices.

(I’m relying on the Lonely Planet tour book for most of the historical background.)

We hiked back to the boat for box lunches and the trip to the southern port at Yumani. Along the way I did see a home equiped with solar panels on the roof. That seemed perfectly appropriate for the Isla del Sol.

Back on land we climbed the Escalera del Inca - Inca staircase (not escalator). This path parallels the flow of a natural spring, which the early Spaniards thought to be the Fountain of Youth; and, which today is vital to the residents who carry jugs up to their homes. I had to stop every 20 steps, or so, to catch my breath. The locals must have incredible lung capacity. At the top we hiked to the Templo del Inca. Although little remains of this temple, it contains the only Bolivian examples of the expert stonework comparable to the famous walls found in Cuzco.

I passed on the trip over to the Ilsa de la Luna, and enjoyed the hourlong cruise back to Copacabana. With all climbing of the paths and staircases, at an altitude over 3,800 meters, I couldn’t think of doing any more that day. Once back, I walked around the beachfront tourist area and found the Internet cafe du jour. I had the llama kebobs and a couple glasses of wine for dinner, and a great night’s sleep.

I had a free morning to wander some more before catching my bus to Cuzco.

Just wanted to get back in touch…. I have sooooo much to catch up on.

The last two weeks have just flown by…. after the incredible bike ride, I had a week of Inca education - at Lake Titicaca, Isla del Sol, Cuzco and environs, and, the climax, Machu Picchu !!! I got to share that week with some very wonderful people I`ve met along the way. I have pages of notes and some information books to consult, for a more detailed account; and, hundreds of photos to share. Stay tuned….

I got to Lima, which is a great big city that offered a return to “civilization” - morning coffee at Starbucks, lunch at KFC, and dinner at Pizza Hut. I passed on my last opportunity to sample the Peruvian favourite cuy ( roasted guinea pig). The flight over the Nazca Lines in a 6-seater plane was another incredible thrill.

I am now in Buenos Aires enjoying the mid-winter weather - it`s a cool cloudy day in the low teens celsius…. quite comfortable for someone who knows a real winter. I`m wandering the central downtown area today…. lots to see & take in. Planning on a good steak dinner and Tango show tonight. Two more days here before my final highlight - Iguazu Falls. And then back “home” to Cochabamba next Thursday. By the way, I got word that the Minisitry of Education DID extend the holiday because of the cold and now the plans I left for the substitute teacher are ready for me to use when school resumes on the 14th (unless it`s still too cold). That`s a bonus.

Hope everyone back home is enjoying the summer and vacation.  Take care.

Hablamos pronto.

Friday night, the 20th, I left on a 10:30 pm bus for La Paz. The heat was working, which I wasn´t expecting. Someone a few rows in front of me had a good snore going, and I was able to sleep with my iPod at full volume listening to Van Morrison concerts - until the police got on the bus around midnight to check identity cards and passports. Later, around 2:00 AM the bus stopped at a roadside restaurant and snack stand for a pit stop - a welcomed stop. I arrived in La Paz about 6:00, and hung around at the bus terminal for a coffee, a turn in the Internet cafe while waiting for sunrise. Took a cab to my hostal, checked in getting the same room as last visit, and got the remaining few hours of my night´s sleep.

Awake and pretty familiar with the neighbourhood, I set out to wander around. The streets here are mainly up and down some pretty steep hills. While I was sitting and catching my breath in the main square - Plaza Murillo - I was approached by a “gentleman, a tourist from Mexico”, who asked me to take his photo in the cathedral across the street. Seemed harmless, but once inside we were approached by another man claiming to be a plain-clothes policeman who wanted to take us to check our passports. This is a familiar crime  in this country. The Canadian Embassy sends out bulletins and never fails to mention “the white car scam” in which tourists are taken in a white car to a so-called Police Station and held until they withdraw all the possible funds from their bank & credit card accounts. I had a similar encounter one day in Cochabamba. I used a couple of “un-church-like” words and left them behind.

The rest of the day was more relaxed. I visited Gravity Assisted Tours and got my final instructions for Sunday s bicycle ride, wandered some more, had dinner, and early to bed.

Sunday began with a 5:00 AM wake-up call and a walk down the Prado to have breakfast at the meeting place. They had about 50 people in several groups for their rides. About two dozen were divided into two bus groups to be taken up to La Cumbra ( another 1000 feet ) for the final orientation and the start. We were given our bikes, warm outer clothing, a dust buff, gloves, goggles, a safety vest and a helmet - no parachute. We drank a toast and spilled some on our tires in an offering to Pachamama.

The ride is 64 Kilometers in length and a 3660 feet drop in altitude. The first half is on paved highway on which we were to ride 30 centimeters from the white line on the right. This is where I got (close) to going “60 when I am 60.” If I had my racer with the skinny tires, I would have made that. But considering it has been about 7 months since my last ride, and first time on a trail bike, I was not disappointed.

Then we got to “The World s Most Dangerous Road a.k.a. The Road of Death”.  Here the instructions changed because we were now on a dirt & gravel surface - we were to ride in the left side tire path (when you could see it) making sure you did not go off the cliff on the left side. The ride was sectioned into a dozen, or so, lengths. The guides explained each interval of the road that we were about to ride - highlighting the particular risks. There was a thick mist in the valley, and it was mostly impossible to see the extent of the danger - a 600 foot cliff if you went off the road !!!

The next few hours had to be the most thrilling of my life - with both hands ready on the brakes; trying to manoeuvre to stay on the tire track and out of the gravel; and trying NOT to gaze at the incredible scenery, through the fog - whizzing down this road. WHEEEEEEEEE !! WHAT A THRILL !! And the best part was getting to the end in one live piece.

It was easy to see why so many bikers, cars, buses & trucks have gone over the edge over the years. Parts of the road were that narrow ! It was hard to imagine that every vehicle did not go down. Nevertheless the ride ended in Coroico - a nice tropical town. Our destination was a resort/wildlife reserve for showers and a buffet dinner. On the way, one girl fell knocking out a front tooth and had to be taken back to La Paz. It being Sunday, and the Summer Solstice holiday, no replacement bus was available, so two bus loads crowded into one bus for a very uncomfortable ride back to La Paz. The guides bought a case of beer to appease us, which mostly worked until we had to start making frequent pit stops.

We got back to La Paz about 10:00 pm and I headed right back to the hotel for a well earned sleep - happy that I now had only 99 more things to do on my “bucket list”.

The news today was of the arrest of two men, with rifles, in Santa Cruz suspected of plotting to kill the President. But a local prosecutor ordered the men freed hours after they had been detained, citing lack of evidence. My question is whether he is left leaning supporter, or a right-wing opponent ???

 On to my Inca Trail…..

I hope any Bolivians reading this are not too offended, but (always a “but” here) this place is crazy unbelievable.

Tuesday at about 11:00 all the teachers were suddenly called to the office for an emergency meeting, in which we were told that the school HAD to be evacuated, before Seduca officials arrived - for fear that the school would be closed down permanently - if they caught us teaching. IMAGINE !!! I’m NOT sure I believe that, but that’s what the Boss told everyone. Lunch was scheduled early and the buses were to leave at 1:00. So, the winter holidays that were to begin on June 30 are ON !!! We were told that school would resume Monday, July 7 - MAYBE ??!! …. “See ya when I see ya !!”

I can’t help thinking that I could be Minister of Education for just a couple of hours and make a significant improvement in this system here. And it wouldn’t depend on which way the wind was blowing !!??!! I am becoming convinced that this country is determined to remain a Third World country, and may aspire to become a Fourth or Fifth ?? !!

So now, I’ve got a couple of extra days to get ready for my trip. That’s okay. I’m so excited at the prospects of packing up my backpack, and pretending I’m 20/30/40/50 -something again. It’s been a few years since I’ve traveled like this. Hope I’ll meet some other Peter Pans (or Tinkerbelles) on the way.

When I was downtown yesterday, I came across thousands the district’s teachers blocking the main intersections near the Post Office (which was open). Masses of teachers spending their winter holiday hanging around, blocking traffic, eating popcorn and ice cream and generally having a nice day in the springlike weather….. all under the watchful eye of the riot police, assembled up the street. What a nice way to spend the day !!!

In other news, from my Google Alert:

“Bolivia is awash with rumors about an impending right-wing coup against the elected government of president Evo Morales. ….If the ruling class persist with their attempts to overthrow the Morales government, the country could be drawn into a civil war with devastating consequences.” No one I’ve talked to has heard these rumors, but here you can expect anything. The BIG recall votes are in less than 2 months. Things should get exciting in anticipation of the August 10 voting.

Yesterday, there was more interest and excitement about Bolivia’s 4-2 win over Paraguay in a World Cup qualifying game. As soon as the game was over, the honking cars continued to parade around the streets for hours - like when the Leafs won a play-off series. Anyone else old enough to remember that ?

I’m off tomorrow night on my trip. Verrrrrrrrrrrrrry excited !!!

Happy Trails