Oblivion ??? ….. Bolivia !!!!

Entries from February 2008

I´m an illegal !!

February 24, 2008 · No Comments

My 30 day visa expired on Friday. It´s been a month since I arrived, and I´m getting more comfortable each day. Time is just flying !! It´s even already feeling like home. Lots of familiar faces to greet each day & my Spanglish vocabulary is expanding to become almost functional.  I can order more than pollo (chicken) & hamberguesa in restaurants. I´m not getting lost as much.

I´ve got someone working for me to get the required working papers. They sure don´t make it easy here.  I needed a rental contract from the landlord (I guess I´m staying there); a copy of his water and light bills; a copy of his ownership/ mortgage payments; a signed contract from school( ¿in Spanish? - I hope I´m not volunteering !!); a copy of the Principal´s proof of ownership; a copy of her personal identification; the school´s tax number; a copy of the school´s financial statement ( she was really happy to share that with me, not); my passport; my fingerprints & registration with Interpol; and, some new photos. It´s taken most of the last three weeks to get everything. I expect the regulations to change tomorrow & I´ll have to get more documents from someone or another.  I told the agent that I wanted to travel over the Easter weekend…. a definite maybe !

School is going well. The initial diagnostic period ended Friday with Meet the Teacher night. I was received nicely by those who showed up. It seems the kids like me. Imagine ! I´m also benefiting from Lani´s reputation & good standing here. A few of her former students´parents came by to say ¨hello¨as well. Half the parents could understood me, & Franco´s Dad helped to translate for those in need. By 9:00 pm it was finally TGIF -  and Friday night at the Irish pub, for the weekly band. There, I meet Peter, a retired teacher from London, England, who´s here working with an NGO, helping to ¨modernize¨ some rural schools. The conditions he described outside the city are not to be believed.

As for Grade 5 at Tito´s Place - the period of ¨advancement¨ which we call teaching, starts tomorrow. I still have to finish my weekly plan before the morning. Tomorrow´s should be easy - page 1 of all the texts….pretty creative lesson planning ! Eight of my eleven should advance with little difficulty. I had to tell the other three´s parents that they should get tutors for their kids. It´s never been fun to give bad news, but I don´t think it was new news to them and they thanked me, even before we started. Go figure. I´ve got homework tonight. Ugh !

During yesterday´s wandering I spent time in one of the Plazas, where there was a live telethon, with band after band playing traditional Bolivian music, raising money & collecting food & clothing for the people in the flooded regions of the country. I was on Cochabamba TV - ¨Lo siento. No hablo español.¨ I´ll have to see if anyone I know was watching. I did make a donation to the cause. Our school is also starting a relief drive.

I went home for a nap afterwards, before Saturday night on the town, but didn´t wake up until the dogs barking on the street woke me about 2:00 am. Damn dogs !!

Refreshed this morning, I walked down to the stadium, a few blocks away, for the weekly pets mart…. speaking of dogs. Sellers show up with cardboard boxes of the cutest looking puppies & kittens - I look but don´t touch; some in cages; dogs of different breeds on leash; people with puppies & kittens in backpacks & shoulder bags; some off the backs of trucks. Everyone had pictures of the parents to guarantee the blood lines. There were lots of pet supplies stands. You could buy birds, fish and rabbits. The guy selling the rabbits also had rabbits´feet and pelts for sale. I´m not sure if he was selling pets, or supper. Needless to say, I had to watch where I was stepping. No poop and scoop laws here.

Besides all the walking I´m doing, there are other different forms of transportation available. Lots of nice new cars, especially huge SUVs…even a few Hummers….but mostly  private cars that wouldn´t likely be considered roadworthy at home. For me there are the highly individually decorated buses; micro buses ( pronounced ¨meecro¨, just as I am ¨Meester Joel¨), taxis, and Trufi taxis, which work like the buses. You negotiate your fare before getting into a regular cab. I travel to school by Trufi or micro bus. These have set routes which wind throughout the city - on paved roads, cobblestone roads, and dirt roads. I get a pretty good view of the differences in wealth in Cochabamba, all on one ride. In their windshields are signs that highlight their routes ( and obscure the drivers´vision), so you can know where you´re supposed to go, and hope you get there. The fare is 1.50 Bolivianos (almost 20 cents). There are no set stops, so you flag your ride down wherever you´re standing, and get them to pull over wherever you want to get off. Consequently, they swerve to the curbside without warning to pickup or drop off passengers, and to avoid the numerous potholes. Little signalling, lots of honking. Red lights mean stop - maybe ! As I said, these drives are enough of a road adventure, that I have abandoned all thoughts of buying a bicycle. There are lots of motorcycles, which often carry families of 3, even 4 ! Not a helmet in sight !!  I´ve described this as the place of near misses. Despite the roads & taxis; the games of chicken at intersections and the many traffic circles; and, the frequent speed bumps which everyone stops at before going over, I haven´t seen a single traffic accident. Unbelievable !! Pedestrians are at the bottom of the road hierarchy and you have to on constant guard, watching over your back,  crossing the street. I´ve got to be ready to sprint at a moment´s notice. There is no road courtesy.

I do have new pictures of what I´ve just told you, but have filled my quota for this month on Flickr. I´ll go home for my credit card & upgrade my services at the next Internet cafe, and post the new shots.

It´s a beautiful warm, sunny day & it´s time to get outside for a while. Sorry to have to share that, but it WILL be spring soon back home. I hope everyone is savouring the last days of winter - thanks for all your weather reports.

I love hearing from you…. keep the comments & emails coming.

Hope all is well.

Categories: Uncategorized

¡¡ Gracias a Dios hoy dia es Viernes !!

February 17, 2008 · No Comments

That´s TGIF in Spanish ! …. TG !!

One week of school down….

At Tito´s Place the first 2 weeks are designated for diagnostic testing, in advance of Meet the Teacher (or Meet the Parents) Night, next Friday. I´ve been giving them different reading, writing, spelling, grammar & Math activities from the Grade 4 books, & some assessments I brought with me. Not surprisingly the range of abilities as fairly wide - even with eleven kids. The trouble will be that everyone is to be instructed & to succeed at the same level.

We are still waiting for the ¨texts´to be ready. Bolivia apparently has NO copyright laws, which explains why new release DVDs are for sale on the street; are on blank disks; and, sell for 4  for 10 Bolivianos ( almost $1.50). Similarly, the school requires the students to purchase photocopies of all the entire text books, even though I have a stock of them in my cupboard, which are not meant to be used.  So, once everyone has their books, they will all be required to do the same work, despite their abilities. ¿ Hmmm ?  The kids who are functioning below grade 5 are recommended to get tutors. The kids achieving above grade level are supposed to follow the grade 5 work. 

I´ll reserve further judgement until we get to ¨Advancement¨ & see how things work out. I may have to rely on some North American thinking to keep me & the kids happily teaching & learning. All in all the kids are great ! As are my colleagues.

My life here is settling into somewhat of a routine - school, Internet cafe, lots of walking (getting lost & finding my way again), dinner (restaurant food is safe, good & fairly cheap), some homework & sleep. I´ve got live music spots for Wednesday, Friday & Saturday.  Still have to make arrangements with Marisol for Spanish/English lessons, and will do that when I´m done at the Internet cafe. My Spanglish + sign language are getting me by mostly, but I do want to learn the language.  I´ve abandoned the idea of getting a bicycle - I still value my life too much. Crossing the streets and riding in cabs are enough of an adventure for me.

I´m living in Lani´s old place - the equivalent of a small bachelor apartment with a hotplate, electric kettle and sink for a kitchen. The landlord and his English-speaking son approached me this morning about staying in that spot, instead of their other place, around the corner, that I thought I´d get.  The landlady has to decide whether I can bring visitors back; use their other kitchen (separate from the main house); and, if they´ll share their Internet connection with me. If I get ¨yes, yes & yes¨ then I´m home. If not, I start looking again. Here´s hoping.

My new pictures show some of the things I´ve encountered on my walks…. some ideas to try out when I get back ?

I love hearing from friends & relatives from back home, and happily write right back to everyone who gets in touch. Please make you comments on the site or use jswise@yahoo.com for personal messages. Thanks to everyone who has written, and if anyone else is checking in on me,  please get in touch some time. It helps with my homesickness.

Also, mention the Math job from my previous post to anyone who might be available and interested.

 I hope everyone stays well, and gets through the remainder of winter. I expect this spring will be the most welcomed in recent memory. Have I mentioned that The City of Eternal Spring has been living up to its reputation, so far?

Anyone thinking of a South American vacation ?

 Hasta Luego.

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Job Opening in Cochabamba

February 14, 2008 · No Comments

No, I´m not giving up & leaving ….

The Principal has an opening for a retired, or just tired, high school Mathematics teacher who might like a change of scenery until the end of November… Or an unemployed newby teacher, wishing to gain some experience, and adventure in The City of Eternal Spring. I said I´d spread the word - not sure if there is a finder´s fee ?  If anyone knows anyone who might be interested, please do get in touch.  My E-mail is:    jswise@yahoo.com

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Last day of retirement

February 10, 2008 · 2 Comments

It´s been 51 days since my last day at Essex.Thank you again to everyone there for that very special moment at 3:30 on my last day. It will remain in my memory & heart forever.

But time moves on and tomorrow is the first day of school. Classes begin at 8:30, with 3 50 minute periods until recess; another 2 until lunch from 12:50 to 1:30, then one more, before ¨study hall¨- to allow the kids to get started on /do their homework. School is dismissed at 3:15 when the buses are to leave. And that´s the day. Through the week I get ¨prep¨time for Spanish language & social studies X 4; and, gym, music, art, and religion each once. My timetable is very defined, with specific periods for Math, Science, Reading, English grammar, spelling, and handwriting. My ¨Global Plan¨ (aka long range plan) is expected soon, and I´m supposed to hand in my daily plans, each week - stating the objectives of each lesson. Good thing I´ve got all that prep time.  My class list is up to 12 !! My classroom is decorated  ready to go - very welcoming, I hope. The first two weeks are slated for Diagnostic testing ending with Parent-Teacher meetings. This will be followed by ¨Advancement¨ before the (real) exams at the end of the trimester.  More on school matters once we get going.

Lani left late Thursday night for La Paz - Miami - Toronto, and arrived safely on schedule Friday night. I´m relieved. The 18 days we had together rank among the BEST EVER. Gracias Lanita.The position of roommate, guide & translator is OPEN.I´ve moved out of the hostal and am living in Lani´s place, until the repairs on mine are done…. in ¿¿maybe 2 weeks?? The landlords - Jenny & Reynaldo - are very nice & we are communicating adequately in Spanglish.

Saturday was Cochabamba´s Carnival parade. There were over 80 different groups of bands & dancers - many of which we saw last week in Oruro. The water ballooning & foam fights were a little subdued compared to last week´s. Lots more families with kids, and the ¨warfare¨was much friendlier. I still wore my poncho, which was a good move.I met Elizabeth & Fred, who had arranged for front row seats right on the Prado. I stayed until the end - I heard they saved the best for last. It was truly spectacular. I took another few hundred shots and am attempting to put some more onto the site, but Flickr seems to be timimg out. I´ll keep at it.

I´ve got another place for live music, for Friday nights. Na Cunna is an Irish pub, opened by a couple of Irish girls, no less, who have moved here. Am I feeling the seed of an idea ? It was as crowded as the Orbit Room on a Friday night, but with no dancing. I´ve given you a shot of it. Two nights down, 5 to fill.

I DO enjoy receiving Email & have been responding to everyone who has sent messages. Please share this site with other friends and I can be reached at jswise@yahoo.com or sometimes on MSN messenger - its.dad@hotmail.com. I love hearing from home - especially the weather reports. So far Cochabamba - the City of Eternal Spring - has been living up to its reputation.

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¡¡¡¡¡Carnival !!!!

February 4, 2008 · 1 Comment

We spent an incredible day Saturday in Oruro for Carnival.  We had a 3:45 AM wake up call & got to the meeting place for our 4:30 departure. ¿¿¿Can you imagine, the bus wasn´t there ?!!! They loaded us onto other, mostly filled buses, before ours showed up. Somehow I didn´t find that surprising. Our bus was mostly North Americans and other Gringos, so it was easy making friends & having conversations. Other Canadians were from Saskatchewan, Winterpeg, & Quebec. They´re working on different CUSO projects.
The drive through the mountains was amazing….sometimes in the clouds.
We got to Oruro about 10 - 11. It´s very different from Cochabamba - mainly dirt roads. And the whole city was focused on Bolivia´s most spectacular Carnival parade.
Our group had reserved seats in the grandstand near where the President was supposed to be, but he missed us. The tour company issued us with plastic ponchos, and warned us we´d still end up soaked. They were right ! 
The parade was going when we arrived & was still going when Lani & I finally called it quits about 5. It was the only completely sunny day we´ve had & so we went to sit in the remaining sunlight in the hopes of drying up a bit before the ride home.
The day is half the most incredible parade (down the only paved road I saw there) I´ve even been at. I put up a small selection of pictures- took over 300 ! Hooray for digital cameras.
The bands and dancers continued all day and into the night.
But the other half of the celebration is a giant water & spray-foam fight.  The biggest business during the parade was the buying & selling bags of baseball sized water-filled balloons, which were thrown across the 2 lane wide street, at the opposite grandstand, during the breaks in the parade. You had to be constantly watchful for ¨INCOMING !!¨ There were a few guys in the stands across from us, with whom our side was in a daylong, mostly good-natured water fight. There were a couple of hurtful hits - one woman in her eye; Lani in her gut - but otherwise the battle was an absolute hoot. And despite our rain wear, we were soaked. Both sides saluted each other for good hits and taunted each other to ¨bring it on¨. My shoulder is sore from the throwing. Also, Supersoakers and cans of foam were the other weapons of choice. They were the more close-range weapons. After a foaming, the water helped wash us off. There was lots of beer and coca leaves. I didn´t drink & didn´t like the taste of the coca. ¿¿Imagine ??
We were able to sleep some on the bus home & were back in the warmth & comfort of our beds soon after midnight.
How was your day ?
P.S. We met a Dutch woman from our group who took the overnight option. She told us how she was swarmed by a gang who sprayed her in the face completely with that foam, and robbed her of her camera. Glad we missed that part of the experience.
Carnival is supposed to end with Ash Wednesday, but continues in Cochabamba for another week, with many of the groups from Oruro coming here for the BIG parade on Saturday. So, we (especially Lani) have to always be ready for an ¨attack¨ for another week. Cars & truckloads of foam & balloon warriors are driving around.
 Today we met Lani´s former & my future Spanish tutor and her family for a trip up to the Cristo. It´s taller even that the Wonder of the World in Rio. Hope no one is offended by my caption. We got a nice panoramic view of the whole city. It´s really quite big.
Time to eat. Adios for now.

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