Oblivion ??? ….. Bolivia !!!!

July 3rd - Happy Birthday Sara !!!!

Another early wake-up call to catch a cab to get to the airport for my morning flight to Buenos Aires. The ride to the airport became a bit of an adventure. Besides the morning rush-hour traffic, my cab driver found a route that avoided the expressway I had taken 3 days earlier, instead finding construction, and a detour to lead through the city centre. I got to see many sights I had missed, and the 20 minute ride lasted over an hour. At one point the driver pulled out his ID and tried to explain something to me. I just answered, “aeropuerto ahora !!” pointing to my watch. With the airport terminal finally in sight, he stopped just short of the entrance and put my backpack on the curb. Now I figured what he was saying - that he didn’t have access to the airport. He still wanted to get paid, but I kept repeating, ” Ni terminal, ni dinero !! ” We exchanged choice words in our respective languages. I put on my pack and had a 10 minute hike to the terminal. I made the 10:30 flight with some time to spare. This was a 4+ hour flight with a loss of 2 more hours, going from the Pacific to the Atlantic. After getting my bag and getting through Immigration I took a bus that first took me to a downtown terminal, and then a second bus directly to my hotel. The whole drive took almost an hour and a half - it’s a BIG city !! It was dark by the time I got settled in my room.

After getting assurances about the safety of the neighbourhood and directions to a main street, I set out in search of an Argentinian steak and wine. All I found open were a couple of corner cafes, and had to settle for a ham & cheese sandwich and a beer.

The hotel gave me a good touring map of the city and together with the guide book I went over my ideas to see the city with Pablo, at the front desk. He was extremely helpful and together we came up with a good three day touring plan. Friday was devoted to Centro - the city centre ( but I bet you figured that out).

Buenos Aires is also a big, civilized city. There are wide main commercial streets - 6 to 8 lanes of two-way traffic. Between these are 5 or 6 one-way residential streets. The traffic seems to move quite well. The stoplights go from green to orange to red, as you would expect; but also go from red to orange to green - “on your mark, get set, go !” The only suggestion I’d make to the city fathers & mothers would be to pass “Poop and Scoop” laws. I’d have been able to enjoy the sights much more if I hadn’t had to watch every step. The older, more traditional apartment buildings have the most attractive balconies. I started a picture theme of these.

Pablo had warned me of the planned protests in front of the Congreso de la Nacion. I, of course, headed straight there but arrived well ahead of the crowds. The police presence and barracades were firmly in place, as were tents set up representing different groups in the Plaza across the street. I walked and hung around a while, then proceeded on my way. I got to Avenue 9 de Julio - called the world’s widest avenue. The main feature is the Obelisco ( a miniature Washington Monument ) in the Plaza de la Republica. Near there I found Av. Lavalle, a pedestrian mall of shops and restaurants. This intersects Avenue Florida the more famous walking street. Near one end is the Galerias Pacifico (Eaton Centre) with the high class stores and incredible paintings on the ceilings that are reminiscent of the Sistene Chapel. Way cool. Not wanting to settle for a sandwich again, I went for a late afternoon steak dinner and a glass (or two) of wine. I was surprised at how busy the restaurant was at that hour. I enjoyed the long walk back to the hotel.

Saturday, I went in a different direction - to the Recoleta district. The guide book calls this the “plushest …ritzy” neighbourhood. The main attraction here is the Cementerio de la Recoleta “where, in death as in life, generations of Argentina’s elite rest in ornate splendor.” Some of the monuments are incredible, decorated with statues or intricately sculpted facades. The highlight here is the Duarte family tomb - Evita’s grave.

Outside the cemetery is a Cultural Centre with another artisan/craft market. I bought a watercolour painting of a couple dancing the Tango. I found another grill for lunch/supper for another steak and wine dinner, and walked home.

On Sundays there is an antique market at Plaza Dorrego in the “Tango District” - San Telmo. The streets in the vicinity are closed to traffic with more artisans selling their goods on the street. Closer to the Plaza, there were street entertainers attracting crowds - pantomimists, various bands and musicians, and Tango dancers. At one intersection I double-took when I saw a moustached bicycle rider waiting at the red light… now I know what I look like !! Farther along, the antiques took up several blocks. I spent several hours here trying to take it all in. Then I took a roundabout route back to the hotel to see Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada - the pink coloured presidential palace with the famous balcony where Evita hung out. I’m not sure which is the famous balcony, but I saw them all, with “Don’t Cry For Me, Argentina” playing non-stop in my head. Another late afternoon steak before heading back. This night I had a ticket for the Tango show at Senor Tango, a big nightclub. The show was spectacular -a Las Vegas-style production- and the dancers were incredible. It was a nice end to my visit here. Buenos Aires would be my second choice to find a future(?) teaching job.

Onto the grand finale (final magnífico) …..