Oblivion ??? ….. Bolivia !!!!

I’m starting this the morning of August 10 — Referendum Revocatorio de Mandato Popular 2008 –

IT’S WEIRD OUT THERE !!!! I just returned from a walk to the supermercado. Everything is closed !! There are no cars on the road. You must have a special permit to drive today. The usual Sunday brunch restaurants are closed. There are more people out strolling - probably going to vote - than I’ve ever seen. The streets have been taken over by cyclists taking advantage of the suddenly safe streets. The quiet is very loud !!!

The Canadian Embassy sent this out:

Travellers should evaluate their travel plans and personal security measures due to continuing political tensions linked to referendums on regional autonomy. Referendums took place on May 4, 2008, for the Department of Santa Cruz, on June 1 for the Departments of Beni and Pando, and on June 22 for the Department of Tarija. Prefectoral elections took place on June 29 in the Department of Chuquisaca (Sucre). Although voting was largely conducted peacefully, public protests and violent incidents occurred. This pattern may continue up to and during a recall referendum, which is scheduled for August 10, 2008.

From Thursday, August 7, at midnight until Monday, August 11, at noon, the sale and consumption of alcoholic beverages will be suspended. Carrying firearms on the day of the referendum is also illegal. Canadians travelling or residing in Bolivia should also exercise personal security measures in areas surrounding polling booths.

Beginning Saturday, August 9 at midnight, through Sunday, August 10 at midnight, no private vehicles or public transportation will be allowed on the road without prior authorization from the Electoral Court. Domestic flights will be cancelled, but international flights will still be operating. Transportation services from the airport to cities in Bolivia will be limited to hotel shuttles.

Major demonstrations and strikes addressing various grievances occur regularly in the capital and in other cities, and may lead to violent incidents. Road blockades are common during times of protest, affecting transportation and limiting access to services and amenities. Canadians should avoid demonstrations at all times and not attempt to pass through roadblocks, and they should also monitor local news reports.

Needless to say, there was a lot of apprehension in advance of the voting. The votes were a face-off between Morales and a group of right-wing governors who oppose his plans for socialist constitutional and land reforms and are fighting back by demanding autonomy for their provinces and a bigger share of windfall natural gas revenues.

Despite the drinking ban, all the sidewalk cafes were still serving on Saturday. One reporter wrote: And here is where the policy of “don’t drink and vote” provides a useful metaphor for Bolivian politics as a whole. On one hand there are the official rules, and then there are the way things really are. If you want to understand Bolivia, it is important to sort out the difference.

But as expected (by some) the President won - and won big !!! Originally elected in 2005 with 54%, the vote this time was an overwhelming 67% in favour. The problem is that the vote was split along geographic location - eastern lowlands vs western Andean highlands; ethnic background - Spanish vs Indigenous; and, by class - rich vs poor. The president is expected to move swiftly to seek approval for a new draft constitution that would redistribute wealth from the country’s hydrocarbons industry, introduce land reforms and open the way for him to run for a second term.

Now, there are negotiations between the national government and the re-elected opposition Prefects. Voters in those four states ratified their governors, who have been pushing for greater autonomy from the dictates of Morales, the socialist president. At issue is who will control the country’s huge natural gas reserves in the east _ the reserves are the second largest in Latin America _ and who will decide the fate of large tracts of farmland in the east that Morales wants to seize and give to indigenous supporters. “There was no agreement on the substance of the conflict issues. The only point of agreement was that the talks are necessary.”

The latest is that the opposition Governors are calling for a general strike this coming week. Stay tuned. In fact, five districts held general strikes Tuesday. The Prefect of Santa Cruz has called Morales a criminal and described government ministers as “a pack of dogs.” It’s been pretty quiet in Cochabamba, where Morales won big. The Prefect of Cochabamba stated before Sunday’s vote that if he lost, he would NOT recognize the result claiming the vote to be unconstitutional. He didn’t hold the same opinion if he won. He lost. Then last Tuesday he changed his mind, not wanting a repeat of last year’s violence in which 3 were killed and over 130 were injured, and resigned. Whew !

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And now about the parades…..I’ve been to five parades in 12 days !!

Wednesday, August 6 was Independence Day.

On the day before, ALL the schools in the Cochabamba area sent students to march in the Schools’ Parade. The majority of the schools send groups that reminded me of half-time shows of U.S. college football teams — Marching bands of baton-twirling majorettes, trumpets and tubas, and drum corps. Tito’s Place showed off our skill in being able to distinguish left from right, and march in relative unison. My class was included at the last minute, and we spent much of Monday practising marching around and around and around and around the concrete soccer pitch. Only two of my kids ended up showing up. Apparently they were told that they didn’t have to, after the hours of practice. Huh ? The “faculty” came dressed ready for a wedding (or funeral). Not having that level of clothing here, I opted for my new Bolivian flag tee shirt, and a Tito’s Place baseball cap. The boss let me know I was NOT welcome to parade with the rest of the staff, so I walked along side of the kids making sure they kept their lines and rows straight - and laughed at my jokes.

Military parade on Wednesday — army with tanks, alpine patrol skiiers, navy (protecting Lake Titicaca), troops wearing camouflage ( sorry, I could see them !!!) I couldn’t help thinking that I’d be seeing many of them again with their guns at the ready, and not parade posture, in connection with the Referendum. Whew ! That hasn’t happen yet.

The Sunday before I went out with Fred. When I saw the Cola-Cola banners spanning the Prado, I knew a parade was imminent. Our way home was detoured by the first parade of the week. A dozen small Quechuan & Aymaran groups were drumming and playing traditional flutes and pipes up the street. It wasn’t the A-list bands and didn’t attract a large crowd, but I throughly enjoyed the spirit and enthusiasm they put into their music and dancing.

Last Thursday, my friend Ruth, the 4th 3rd grade teacher, who has been instrumental in helping me develop a bit of a social life, invited me to join her and her friends for the Urkupina Festival parade in Quillacolla ( a suburb about 10 Ks away). Called ” Fiesta de la integracion” it is an annual tribute to The Virgin. On Saturday, hoards of believers climb the Calvario - a local hill - where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared. With the amount of beer consumed, I’m hardly surprised. (I hope that’s not too irreverent.)

The parade was similar to the Carnaval parade Lani & I attended back in February - but without the water balloons and canned foam. The groups of dancers were outfitted in the most ornate costumes/uniforms. And the dancing was amazing ! The music and rhythms are pretty simple, but the dancing in unison is such a treat to watch. Ruth is in a Caporales group and will be performing in another festival in a couple of months. I can’t wait.

For some reason (Ruth said it had to do with bribing the municipal officials), they chose the narrowest of streets. The crowds and the dancers interfered with each other. At times, squads of Policia tried to clear the way for the dancing groups. They were often greeted with loud jeers and occasionally thrown cans of beer. When this happened they charged indiscriminately in the direction the can came from - pushing innocent bystanders on the way to the unidentified culprits. I got my first taste of pepper spray !! I’ll be happy never to get a second. And, I stopped taking pictures when I saw one of the over-zealous cops eying me. Even with a “few” beers, I was able to exhibit good judgment !!

After the parade, my new friends and I went for street meat - cow’s heart kabobs and sausages ! Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.

In all, it was a great taste of Bolivian culture and custom.

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Then, at school on Friday morning, out of left field, I was given a promotion - Teacher-Liason to the Administration !! HUH ??? And offered an “office” job for next year. WTF ???!!! It reminded me of the line from the Godfather: “Keep your friends close, and your enemies closer.” I’d thought I was more of a pain than anything else….but apparently not !! I am giving the possibility of returning for another year verrrrrry serious consideration. Anybody want a job here ? I seem to have an “in”.

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Listening to Q107 every day - and hearing the “Let’s go to the EX” ads - makes me wonder where the winter has gone !!! Many of my friends will be back in their schools in the next week or two, and will be back in the grind two weeks today…. except for Gayle & Joyce - formerly of Maurice Cody !!! Congratulations to you two, too.

I hope everyone enjoys the remaining days of summer , and vacation.

Hasta pronto !!

I’ve been back “home” in Cochabamba for over 3 weeks already. My travels are becoming a distant memory. I hope anyone out there enjoyed reading my rambles and viewing the photos from my touring. I took almost 1500 shots - aren’t digital cameras wonderful !!!! A couple each of Machu Picchu and Iguazu Falls can also be seen on: www.tripadvisor.com (I’m Joel60). Anyone wondering where in the world to visit won’t be disappointed coming to South America. I still have several destinations in Bolivia on my list before I come home.

And so, things have returned to normal. The coldest part of the winter has passed. The days continue to be spring-like and the nights are getting more comfortable. I’ve been able to shed a few layers of sleepwear and socks, and don’t have to speed through getting dried and dressed in the mornings.

I was happy to get back to my friends here, and kids at school. They are the best part of being here. Because there were “extra” days of holiday, the Boss called everyone in for the last week for a series of Professional Development sessions. She didn’t want us to have too much paid vacation ! When I returned, she gave me a complete summary of the topics and important points covered. In the session on lesson planning she said things like: “Make detailed lesson plans but don´t rely on them, and be ready to abandon them if you get off topic and onto something interesting.” ….”Make sure you stick to the Global Plan, because you have to finish the texts, but don´t assign homework in order to stick to the schedule. The parents are complaining.” There were other presentations on Evaluation, and Teaching Reading. She neglected to tell me she used the materials I had brought and given to her for those. She told me how wonderful the sessions were and how well received they were by “everybody”. I asked all the teachers I know here and have yet to find “anybody”. It’s great to be back !!!

The public school teachers are back on strike, leaving us about the school operating. The other “American” schools follow the North American schedule and won’t be returning to class for another few weeks.

I’m enjoying going to the dentist here. The state of my teeth has been in need of much repair. I’ve had a few broken fillings and crowns replaced lately. Six teeth repaired, and a cleaning and I’m almost up to $400 in charges !!! I hope my dental plan will recognize the work done here, which would reduce my costs by half. At these prices it’s worth coming down here for the work — the vacation would be free.

Things are going to get very interesting here next week. Wednesday is Independence Day, when everyone will be united celebrating - parades, fireworks, lots of drinking … then next Sunday the 10th is the National Recall Referendum which will likely divide the country in two. The division seems to be along racial lines. The (white) Spanish community who are generally the wealthy half wants to vote “No” and remove President Evo Morales and his MAS ( Movement Toward Socialism) party from office. Since his election almost 3 years ago, he has carried out his promise to introduce a new constitution, which would give greater rights and opportunities ($$$) to the indigenous people ( Quechuan, Aymaran, and almost 3 dozen smaller groups). These represent the “Si” vote. There was supposed to be a national referendum on this new constitution, but it was cancelled as four of the districts started holding their own autonomy votes, in May and June. The power struggle between Morales, the country’s first indigenous president, and a group of pro business oriented governors - including the wealthier, gas-producing regions in the east of Latin America’s poorest nation - demanding more autonomy for their regions has forced him to put on hold some key reforms, chiefly his plan to give more power and state revenue to the indigenous majority from which he comes.

Apparently, the original rules of this vote state that the President and each of the District Prefects up for recall, must achieve the same percentage of the vote that they were last elected by. Thus, Evo must get 53.7% to remain President. This, apparently, was the first time a President was actually elected with a majority. With over a dozen political parties represented here, the Prefects actually have to achieve votes (much) less than 50%. One clipping I saw recently said: Only Cochabamba prefect Manfred Reyes, who last year challenged Morales to test his support at the polls but is now reneging on his ultimatum, is opposing the electoral battle. As an opposition prefect in the heartland of M.A.S.’s support base, Reyes knows his position is one of the most at risk.

Each side seems to have taken up the question of the Constitutionality of the vote (depending on how they projected the results, I guess), but with 4 out of 5 of the judges of the National Election Court recently resigning, a 3 vote quorum is impossible and the vote will proceed. One reporter here has commented how the “rules” for the vote change every day. He writes: The latest is that the elections officials now seem to think that the vote should go forward – a relief to know that all that public and private money spent on each side’s propaganda isn’t going to waste – but with a few modifications. Now each of the governors would either be in or out based on winning or losing a regular 50% majority instead of the complicated ´depends-on-what-you-won-with´ formula previously planned. President Morales, however, would still benefit from the old rules, letting him win even if his vote drops just below 50%. It seems to be a formula based on a rule of ¨whatever it takes to assure that everyone stays where they are.¨ How this fits in to legal and constitutional requirements is anyone’s guess. And these are just Thursday’s rules. They will likely change a few times more before the actual vote.

Also at issue is the location of the National Capital - La Paz has been the site of the National Assembly since the civil war of 1899, but a large segment want to see Sucre be restored as the Capital. Moreover, no one knows what will be the definitive reaction of the majority of the Bolivian people and also of the armed forces that, in Bolivia, have had strong participation in political activities and in some cases when the republican institutions have been threatened by communist conspiracies. Can’t wait for August 11.

One of the best things I’ve read, in writing this, comes from the President: “When some jurist tells me: ‘Evo, you are making a juridical mistake, what you are doing is illegal’, well, I do it even if it is illegal. Afterwards I tell the lawyers: ‘if it is illegal, you make it legal, that’s what you have studied for,’” added the ruler.

I’ve seen more marches and assemblies around the city and have missed many more. I have heard of blockados within the city, and have read of those traveling by bus from Cochabamba to Sucre having to get off the buses, carry their baggage through the blockade, and find a ride on the other side. Fred’s wife has made me promise to stock up on canned foods, pasta and rice, in anticipation that the situation will get worse before it gets better…

I’ll be home when I run out of tuna.

Next Saturday will be 200 days here. I haven’t started counting the days until I leave.

Hope everyone is having a good summer. I hear it’s been a little damp up there.