Oblivion ??? ….. Bolivia !!!!

Hola everybody….. sorry, I’ve been neglecting my writing the last while. It’s been over a month since my last finished piece was posted. I do have several in draft form, but haven’t gotten back to you lately. So, here goes with an account of the last month…..

School has gotten very busy with the a rush to complete all the text books, according to the Global Plan that I composed in February. Our instructions were to “touch” everything on the Plan, rather than teach the material well and miss the last bits of the texts. Remarkably I completed everything but the last chapter in the Math text. Final exams began last week, but my subjects didn’t start until the end of the first week and the second week is my busiest. We had a day to mark the exams and submit final term marks so the office people could prepare the report cards in time for Parents’ Night.

Final exams are now done, and I’m down to two weeks of “Reinforcement” for the remainder of the school year. Reinforcement is a remedial time designed to help the lower kids with something before they go on holidays. The marking scheme is weighted to make their lower marks end up looking respectable on the final-final report. There has been much confusion in the last weeks about all this, that it makes me believe that there really are no regulations and that someone is just making it all up on the spur of the moment. At first we were told that at least half the class had to attend, but then on Friday, hours before parent interviews, we were told that marks less than 46 (out of 70) “qualified” a student to attend. Marks here are out of 70 - the best explanation I can come up with is that some hard-of-hearing official in the Education Department heard “setenta” when someone said “per cent”, and this country has “setentage” while the rest of the world has “percentage”.  Nonetheless, I’m expecting 6 kids for the next 2 weeks. I have to invent a program according to the individual needs, employing different strategies, although there is little to support from the school. We have been told that we are required to submit a mark everyday, for every subject (out of 70, of course). We’ve also been told that “it’s Bolivian culture for the teacher to provide the necessary photocopied materials for these two weeks”…HUH ? I’m anticipating another disagreement with the administration- we’ve had an on-going dispute over whose responsibility it is to provide school material. I think it’s the school’s. Franco’s parents are going to try to get him out of coming. They promised him a trip to Miami if he didn’t have to come to school, and I think the parents really want to go. Here’s hoping. And Bruno & Diego have asked if they could come, even though all their marks were above 46. I’ll take that trade.

After the meetings, a bunch of us went to Na Cunna for dinner and drinks and music. I’d show you the pictures, but I had another Bolivian Moment, when we were at another club for more beer and dancing. I had been taking shots of everyone on the dance floor, until I got up to dance a bit. I put the camera away in my jacket pocket for safekeeping, but when I got back to my chair and reached for it to take more pictures, it was gone. #@&%(@# !!!! There are always street kids wandering around selling gum, cigarettes, kleenex, candy, etc. but who are mostly on the lookout to grab anything that has some value to take to their “boss” - the fence that gives them a bit of money for the loot. Needless to say, I was pissed off, but there was nothing to do about it. One of my friends suggested that I try to think that I had just made a donation to a Bolivian charity. One bright side is that prices for cameras in the cancha are a lot better than at home and I was able to replace it for less than in Toronto. Oh well, it could have been worse, I suppose.

The next stuff will be a summary of other doings the last number of weeks. Although I haven’t kept up with the writing, I have been adding photos to the site regularly, thinking that each picture was worth a 1000 words. So now here are some of those words:

I returned to the Synagogue for Yom Kippur services, both for Kol Nidre on Wednesday night, and then for a longer portion of Thursday’s services than I’ve ever attended before. For these, there were almost 100 people in attendance by the end. I was honoured both days with Aliyahs, to open the Ark. The holiday ended with a candle-lit procession of all the children through the darkened Synagogue. It was quite beautiful. Then there was a full buffet spread set up to break the fast. It was a nice time to mingle with many of the congregants that have become very familiar, friendly faces. Cousin Elaine wrote after the last posting: “Being Jewish means you have family no matter where you are in the world.” That’s exactly how I felt being there. I’ve returned for Friday services a couple more times so far, and will get back at least one more time to say, “Good bye”. I finally made arrangements with the President of the synagogue to get in and take photos. The best one’s have been posted. He really liked Elaine’s words when we were together.

My friend Ruth (now wanting to be called Sonia, since her new identity papers were processed) has continued being the social and tour director for a growing group of friends. For her birthday a few weeks ago, four of us celebrated by taking a day trip to several nearby towns, to see different local attractions. The centres of each of the towns has a Plaza Principal, all with monuments and ornate fountains. I’m learning the origins of many street names, named for different heroes of different struggles and conflicts. Statue making has got to be a great job here.

The highlight of that day’s trip was the church in a small town - Kuchumuela - outside of Punata, which is the site of a shrine to el Nino de Sikimira. This is a miniature gold statue of a baby (Jesus), housed in a glass dome. The story, as best as I can tell you, has to do with a little boy playing out in the fields, who came across a baby sitting on an ant hill. Of course, the ants were leaving the baby alone. He returned to town and told of his discovery. His story was dismissed as a child’s imagination. But, after many visits to the ant hill and the continued claims of seeing the baby there, someone eventually went with him to see. Instead of a the baby, the miniature gold infant model was found on the ant hill. This was viewed as a miracle, and the church was built to house the relic. On the wall inside, are a number of plaques from pilgrims who have come to pay tribute, and have had their wishes of good fortune answered. We met a couple of elderly residents - one, a little old woman who is the keeper of the key to the church; and, a little old man who was sitting outside, and came in with us and told us the story…. both real characters !!  We tipped them for their assistance, and we last saw them headed for “chicha” - a liquor made from distilled corn.

We visited two other towns - Cleza & Tarata - before heading home. One church in Tarata was closed for renovations. People coming here are supposed to meet “the person of their dreams” afterwards. We’re planning to return after the work is completed. We stopped for a late lunch/early dinner of trucha (trout) in a floating restaurant on the way back to Cochabamba. We met later at an ice cream parlor for birthday cake before heading out to a disco for the rest of the night & early morning. One custom here is to push the birthday boy or girl’s face into the cake… check the photo. I’m glad my birthday was low-key and I got to pass up that tradition… maybe next year ??

The next Saturday was Family Day & the closing of the sports season at school. My class performed an athletic dance to “High School Musical” after weeks and weeks and weeks of rehearsal, and did a great job. Congratulations chicas and chicos !! If I never hear that song again, it’ll be too soon. This was “Meese” Lorena’s BIG day. Together with the Music teacher, she had to prepare all the classes for their performances. Congratulations Meese Lorena !! After the show, a few of us went out for chicharron (fried pig parts - a Bolivian favourite) and guarapina  ( a version of chicha ) with her parents and grandparents. We spent a lovely afternoon of eating, drinking and Bolivian dancing. The guarapina is served in a clay jug and taken from a half shell. When you take a drink, you are supposed specify someone to toast, and then offer them an equal amount of drink. It got a little silly, trying (successfully) to get each other drunk. After 4 jugs of guarapina, we were a very happy and, hopefully, very healthy bunch of drunks. Bolivians are not known for drinking in moderation.The dancing got easier with each subsequent jug. It was a really good taste of Bolivian culture.

Hallowe’en is sort of celebrated here, but the next two days - All Saints Day & Day of the Dead - are more Bolivian traditions. Because dia de la Muerte happened on a Sunday, Monday became a day off. Bolivians don’t like missing a holiday from work. We arranged to hire a bus and guide to take us to Inkachaka, a couple of hours drive down toward the tropical lands. As we went down the mountains, the weather got warmer and the vegetation became more abundant and varied. Unfortunately, it was also raining on that side of the mountains. This destination is a beautiful nature preserve that was once an electricity generating station because of the beautiful waterfalls and rapids. The electric company has abandoned the power plant, but has kept the property for visitors.

Last weekend I joined Sonia/Ruth and group of supporters of San Jose - the Oruro futbol team - for a weekend in La Paz for the annual fan club convention and a game. It was something like the Leaf’s Stanley Cup celebration (if you can remember that) with speeches, films, tributes from the different chapters of the club, dancers, singers and, some of the players making an appearance. I got to understand the “fanatic” in fan. Later the game versus La Paz ended a successful celebration, with San Jose winning 2-1, having scored all 3 goals !! We hung out for a while to meet the players. The referee and linesmen had to be escorted away from the crowd by fully equipped riot police. It seemed like a good idea NOT to take photos of the cops…. they look mean.

I just got a call from Marisol, my tutor, to invite me to the Wilstermann - Aurora futbol game at the stadium, which is just down my street. These are both Cochabamba home teams and each have very fanatic followings. She and her family are Aurora fans & I have a Wilstermann hat and shirt. Hmmmm. I think I’ll wear my Leafs’ shirt. I’ll get to try out my new camera !! We try to have Spanish (or Spanglish) only sessions. I’m getting a lot better, with fewer laughs at my mistakes. In another year I should be approaching fluency.

Tomorrow will be my 300th here. This has been the FASTEST year of my life. As I’ve mentioned, the City of Eternal Spring has fulfilled that billing. The rainy season is just beginning - it’s raining right now.

But I am also down to three and a half weeks left before my return to Toronto. I’m looking forward to getting away from the boring, perfect weather and back to the more exciting cold, snow & slush. ??????? I’m 90% hopeful that I’ll just be visiting for 6 or 7 weeks, and that I’ll get back here in time for the next big referendum on the proposed new constitution, Carnaval in Oruro, and another school year.

I’ll be landing in Toronto late on Wednesday, December 10….. plan to be at Out of the Cold on Thursday evening and the Orbit Room on Friday night !! After that I’m available for any and all invitations. I’m so looking forward to seeing everybody, and trying to convince you to take South American holidays next year.

I’ll be staying at my Dad’s - 416-492-0345 - for my visit or until I resettle.I’d love to hear from you and get together.

Hasta pronto.

The synagogue in La Paz claims to be the closest to God, being at the highest altitude - over 13,000 feet. That must make the synagogue in Cochabamba the second closest.

After walking by at times and on occasions when I thought it might be open, but it never was, I wrote to the Israelite Associacion of Cochabamba, asking if there would be observances for the High Holidays. A couple of weeks later I got a reply, inviting me to the Synagogue last Friday night. I arrived for my 7:30 meeting and was surprised to see the synagogue open for Shabbat services. I’m sure I had gone by at least one Friday night months ago, but I guess not.

The congregation was established in late1940s and the synagogue is quite charming and well maintained. Facing the altar, the main floor has maybe 20 rows of standing, reading-height ledges with benches. The women’s seating sections are three rows of “bleachers” on both sides of the main floor. There are memorial plaques on the walls in the sanctuary and dedication plaques in the entrance area. The ceiling is arched. The altar is a step up with a model of the Ten Commandments above, and the names of the twelve tribes around the ark. There were about two dozen congregants for the service led by one of the elders.

I was greeted warmly by the President and several gentlemen, who were expecting me. I met and sat with a couple of younger members who were more conversant in English - Alejandro, 21 who is getting ready to make aliyah - move to Israel; and, Alex, 25 who works for an investment brokerage. They were very helpful, assisting me through the prayer book. Afterwards, Alex invited me to join him and some others for a Shabbat dinner at one of the men’s houses. It was very nice to be welcomed like that. I’m able to converse pretty well with my Spanglish.

I returned Monday night and Tuesday morning for Rosh Hashanah services… L’shana Tova…. These were led by a Cantor who was flown in from Buenos Aires. I counted about 50 in attendance for both services. I was invited for dinner at the same gentleman’s home. On Tuesday, my English conversation before the service, with Alejandro attracted two other gringos - Noah, from Calgary & Jeff, from California. They are both medical students - Noah is volunteering in a burn unit at a hospital; and, Jeff is in Bolivia doing research on Chagas’ Disease - which is a parasitic condition that has a detrimental effect on the heart and is transmitted by some bugs - hopefully not found in Cochabamba. Ask my brother, Mark about that. Despite not not being able to follow the services in two languages, I felt good having made the connection and being able to celebrate the holiday so far from home. I’m looking forward to Yom Kippur this week.

The last week had both a high and low point at school. Last Saturday, Lucia’s Mother hosted my class at their country property, about 20 minutes out of town. We met at their house, in a gated community, with new houses that would fit on the Bridle Path (or Thornhill, Ron). She and Bruno’s Mom drove us out. This is a large property where they plan to build a house designed by Lucia’s Dad, an architect. Right now there is a two bedroom cottage into which the family crowds when they stay there. They have two horses who graze on half the property; a futbol field; a large garden (farm); a tremendous sand pile; a trampoline; a tree swing; and, a full kitchen/barbeque & dining area where the new house is planned. The kids had a great time turning the sand pile into mud - exploring my recent lessons on erosion. Check out the pictures. (Incidently, I was contacted by 2 groups on Flickr - “Ol’ Mud Hole” and “Kids and Mud” - to include some of my pictures on their sites.) We had barbecued hamburgers and hot dogs for lunch, tons of treats, & ice cream. When Lucia’s Dad arrived he saddled one of the horses & gave all the kids a ride. The kids had a great time and were a pleasure to be with - not an argument or a tear shed all day. I was wary that it would be an extra day of work. I enjoyed the adult company of Carla & Raul, and Titi (Brenda’s Mom, who helped drive the group home). Hopefully we’ll get to have another outing before the end of the term.

We had a tragedy at school this week. Miss Tiffany, the grade 4 teacher, died most unexpectedly Wednesday night. Apparently she was receiving treatment for asthma, but her condition was much worse than that. She was only in her early twenties. Needless to say, Thursday and Friday were very difficult days, with everybody terribly shocked and deeply saddened. We all were forced to teach lessons that I hope that none of us will ever have to again.

On a happier note, I got to wish my friend Carlos, the drummer, Feliz Cumpleanos on Saturday night when his band, Trimate,  played at Na Cunna, on his birthday. Emma & Fiona, the owners, like that I call their place my “Cheers” in Cochabamba - where a lot of people know my name. If you’re ever in the neighbourhood….

I plan to reach another milestone this week - it’s time to buy my ticket back to Toronto. YIKES !!! I have just over two months left here. As happy as I will be to be home and reconnect with you, my family and friends, I will be equally sad that this adventure will be done. I would love to come back to my second home here for another year, but who knows ??

Hope everybody is well.

Happy Thanksgiving, next week.

Buenos dias everyone,

When I first started writing this, I was good about doing a weekly update … then as the “new” became my “usual” I tried to write every two weeks…. now, I’m trying to write monthly. Although the political situation in parts of the country is very much a concern, and I’ll get to that soon, my life here remains in a comfortable routine which doesn’t allow me to share much that is new and interesting to read. With the end of my time here in sight, I have equally strong, but opposing feelings - I can’t wait to get back home, and I wish this time here would never end.

With the arrival of September, I first started to count my days left here - about 10 weeks. My target date to be back in Toronto is December 7. It’s almost time to book a date at the Orbit Room for an “I’m Baaaack” party. My inclination at the moment is to “visit” in Toronto for a couple of months and return to Cochabamba for another year. Everything is really good. Winter is over, and everyone is enjoying the spring weather, which I would call “perfect” summer days. The rainy season (summer) is approaching, but the last month has been absolutely perfect weather every single day - part of the appeal to remain here. Even what they considered “winter” would be perfect autumn/spring days by Toronto standards. The City of Eternal Spring has not disappointed at all - 230+ straight days of perfect weather.

My Spanglish, which contains an ever increasing amount of Spanish, is getting really good. I can carry on limited conversations - with gringo accent and grammar mistakes. I know three tenses, now. I can construct reasonably coherent sentences and can even answer some questions. Sometimes when I know the situation, despite missing every word spoken, I can respond appropriately. I see Marisol a couple times a week for Spanish - English lessons.  She recently passed her TOEFL exam and is now teaching English. I’ve been helping her with some clarifications and various teaching ideas. Until you are teaching English as a Second Language, you probably haven’t noticed how illogical the language is. It makes little sense. Spanish, on the other hand, has consistent rules and pronunciations.

The final semester at school has started. Second term exams and Parent interviews went mostly well - almost everyone is passing !!! My own “promotion” did translate into a bit of a pay raise, and I’ve been representing several teacher concerns with the boss. I feel like the (non)union rep. She even told me she likes and values me more than I could know. I didn’t know.

I did have a very special moment a couple of weeks ago, when I went out for Sunday lunch with one of the other teachers. For those familiar with the movie “Stand and Deliver” which starred Edward James Olmos as Jaime Escalante, a Math teacher who became renowned for successfully teaching calculus to minority students in East Los Angeles, I met and shook hands with Senor Escalante, who now lives in Cochabamba. He is one of my teaching heroes. It was a definite thrill !!! Unfortunately, it was one of the few occasions I was not carrying my camera. I got this one from a Google search. He looks just the same.

Last weekend was the latest opportunity for celebration and parades - the 14th de Septiembre was the 198th anniversario of the founding of Cochabamba. The main square in Cochabamba (Plaza Principal) is named Plaza Catorce de Septiembre. Saturday was the parade of school marching bands - why Tito’s Place didn’t participate I don’t know, but who’s complaining ? I got to sit and watch from a nice shady spot. Sunday’s was the “grown ups’ ” parade with the universities, unions, professions, and the military on parade. I couldn’t help thinking that I’d be seeing those soldiers again, with their guns pointing in a different direction before too long. I found out after that the President was viewing the festivities farther along the parade route.

On the political front here - this is a country in extreme crisis !! Fortunately, for me, Cochabamba has been pretty quiet. The teachers are back at work, for a while, for a “cooling off” period of 40 days, while the Union and government negotiate to settle their differences. Once the 40 days is done, the betting is that the schools will be closed, and that the government will just cancel the rest of the school year. This may affect the private schools, but no one knows yet. Maybe I’ll be home before I planned.

In my last post, I told you of the Recall Referendum of August 10. The President won an overwhelming vote of confidence with about 65% of the vote. He had announced that the next referendum to approve ( or not ) the proposed Constitution would be held on December 7. One problem is that the Prefects of the Districts in opposition to the new Constitution were also re-approved with similar majorities, reinforcing the autonomy votes of May and June. The wealth of Bolivia is centred in the lowland regions, east of the Andes. The Districts where the natural gas deposits and the rich agricultural lands are found are known as the “Media Luna” (half moon), because of the shape of their collective territories.

Recently there have been violent protests in parts of the Media Luna - government and telephone company offices burned in Santa Cruz; attacks on Indigenous organization’s offices in Tarija; and, the massacre of 25+ campesinos, backers of Morales, headed to the local capital for a meeting, who were ambushed by armed backers of the Governor in Pando. Martial law has been in effect since, and the Governor was arrested. I saw that the Toronto Star has finally carried a couple of stories about the current situation.

On the weekend, our friend, Nick, who was to return with a new group of students this week, was first diverted to, and now is stranded in Argentina, unable to enter Bolivia because of the deteriorating relationship between the U.S. and Bolivia. Last week the American ambassador was “asked” to leave, being accused of organizing the violence against the government. Now Nick’s sponsors are looking for alternative locations for their program in Ecuador or Mexico. In fact, the American government has evacuated the last of the Peace Corps volunteers, and is offering other Americans, who wish, flights out. The Canadian Embassy is suggesting that Canadians avoid travel to the affected provinces and to steer clear of demonstrations - good advice I plan to follow.

On Monday the Presidents of Chile, Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, Paraguay, Ecuador, Venezuela, Peru, and Uruguay joined Morales at an emergency summit in Chile to offer him their strong backing. The President of Venezuela threatened to send his soldiers to Bolivia, if need be. A Bolivian spokesman answered this offer with a “thanks, but no thanks” response.

And now, on Thursday, the President and the prefects of the Media Luna districts started meeting in Cochabamba. I was warned to stay clear of the meeting place, as the potential for disturbance is always high. There are four main issues of contention: the division of gas and oil revenue; the proposed new Constitution; regional autonomy; and pending appointments to the nation’s judicial bodies.

Who knows how things will turn out ?

I’m starting this the morning of August 10 — Referendum Revocatorio de Mandato Popular 2008 –

IT’S WEIRD OUT THERE !!!! I just returned from a walk to the supermercado. Everything is closed !! There are no cars on the road. You must have a special permit to drive today. The usual Sunday brunch restaurants are closed. There are more people out strolling - probably going to vote - than I’ve ever seen. The streets have been taken over by cyclists taking advantage of the suddenly safe streets. The quiet is very loud !!!

The Canadian Embassy sent this out:

Travellers should evaluate their travel plans and personal security measures due to continuing political tensions linked to referendums on regional autonomy. Referendums took place on May 4, 2008, for the Department of Santa Cruz, on June 1 for the Departments of Beni and Pando, and on June 22 for the Department of Tarija. Prefectoral elections took place on June 29 in the Department of Chuquisaca (Sucre). Although voting was largely conducted peacefully, public protests and violent incidents occurred. This pattern may continue up to and during a recall referendum, which is scheduled for August 10, 2008.

From Thursday, August 7, at midnight until Monday, August 11, at noon, the sale and consumption of alcoholic beverages will be suspended. Carrying firearms on the day of the referendum is also illegal. Canadians travelling or residing in Bolivia should also exercise personal security measures in areas surrounding polling booths.

Beginning Saturday, August 9 at midnight, through Sunday, August 10 at midnight, no private vehicles or public transportation will be allowed on the road without prior authorization from the Electoral Court. Domestic flights will be cancelled, but international flights will still be operating. Transportation services from the airport to cities in Bolivia will be limited to hotel shuttles.

Major demonstrations and strikes addressing various grievances occur regularly in the capital and in other cities, and may lead to violent incidents. Road blockades are common during times of protest, affecting transportation and limiting access to services and amenities. Canadians should avoid demonstrations at all times and not attempt to pass through roadblocks, and they should also monitor local news reports.

Needless to say, there was a lot of apprehension in advance of the voting. The votes were a face-off between Morales and a group of right-wing governors who oppose his plans for socialist constitutional and land reforms and are fighting back by demanding autonomy for their provinces and a bigger share of windfall natural gas revenues.

Despite the drinking ban, all the sidewalk cafes were still serving on Saturday. One reporter wrote: And here is where the policy of “don’t drink and vote” provides a useful metaphor for Bolivian politics as a whole. On one hand there are the official rules, and then there are the way things really are. If you want to understand Bolivia, it is important to sort out the difference.

But as expected (by some) the President won - and won big !!! Originally elected in 2005 with 54%, the vote this time was an overwhelming 67% in favour. The problem is that the vote was split along geographic location - eastern lowlands vs western Andean highlands; ethnic background - Spanish vs Indigenous; and, by class - rich vs poor. The president is expected to move swiftly to seek approval for a new draft constitution that would redistribute wealth from the country’s hydrocarbons industry, introduce land reforms and open the way for him to run for a second term.

Now, there are negotiations between the national government and the re-elected opposition Prefects. Voters in those four states ratified their governors, who have been pushing for greater autonomy from the dictates of Morales, the socialist president. At issue is who will control the country’s huge natural gas reserves in the east _ the reserves are the second largest in Latin America _ and who will decide the fate of large tracts of farmland in the east that Morales wants to seize and give to indigenous supporters. “There was no agreement on the substance of the conflict issues. The only point of agreement was that the talks are necessary.”

The latest is that the opposition Governors are calling for a general strike this coming week. Stay tuned. In fact, five districts held general strikes Tuesday. The Prefect of Santa Cruz has called Morales a criminal and described government ministers as “a pack of dogs.” It’s been pretty quiet in Cochabamba, where Morales won big. The Prefect of Cochabamba stated before Sunday’s vote that if he lost, he would NOT recognize the result claiming the vote to be unconstitutional. He didn’t hold the same opinion if he won. He lost. Then last Tuesday he changed his mind, not wanting a repeat of last year’s violence in which 3 were killed and over 130 were injured, and resigned. Whew !

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And now about the parades…..I’ve been to five parades in 12 days !!

Wednesday, August 6 was Independence Day.

On the day before, ALL the schools in the Cochabamba area sent students to march in the Schools’ Parade. The majority of the schools send groups that reminded me of half-time shows of U.S. college football teams — Marching bands of baton-twirling majorettes, trumpets and tubas, and drum corps. Tito’s Place showed off our skill in being able to distinguish left from right, and march in relative unison. My class was included at the last minute, and we spent much of Monday practising marching around and around and around and around the concrete soccer pitch. Only two of my kids ended up showing up. Apparently they were told that they didn’t have to, after the hours of practice. Huh ? The “faculty” came dressed ready for a wedding (or funeral). Not having that level of clothing here, I opted for my new Bolivian flag tee shirt, and a Tito’s Place baseball cap. The boss let me know I was NOT welcome to parade with the rest of the staff, so I walked along side of the kids making sure they kept their lines and rows straight - and laughed at my jokes.

Military parade on Wednesday — army with tanks, alpine patrol skiiers, navy (protecting Lake Titicaca), troops wearing camouflage ( sorry, I could see them !!!) I couldn’t help thinking that I’d be seeing many of them again with their guns at the ready, and not parade posture, in connection with the Referendum. Whew ! That hasn’t happen yet.

The Sunday before I went out with Fred. When I saw the Cola-Cola banners spanning the Prado, I knew a parade was imminent. Our way home was detoured by the first parade of the week. A dozen small Quechuan & Aymaran groups were drumming and playing traditional flutes and pipes up the street. It wasn’t the A-list bands and didn’t attract a large crowd, but I throughly enjoyed the spirit and enthusiasm they put into their music and dancing.

Last Thursday, my friend Ruth, the 4th 3rd grade teacher, who has been instrumental in helping me develop a bit of a social life, invited me to join her and her friends for the Urkupina Festival parade in Quillacolla ( a suburb about 10 Ks away). Called ” Fiesta de la integracion” it is an annual tribute to The Virgin. On Saturday, hoards of believers climb the Calvario - a local hill - where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared. With the amount of beer consumed, I’m hardly surprised. (I hope that’s not too irreverent.)

The parade was similar to the Carnaval parade Lani & I attended back in February - but without the water balloons and canned foam. The groups of dancers were outfitted in the most ornate costumes/uniforms. And the dancing was amazing ! The music and rhythms are pretty simple, but the dancing in unison is such a treat to watch. Ruth is in a Caporales group and will be performing in another festival in a couple of months. I can’t wait.

For some reason (Ruth said it had to do with bribing the municipal officials), they chose the narrowest of streets. The crowds and the dancers interfered with each other. At times, squads of Policia tried to clear the way for the dancing groups. They were often greeted with loud jeers and occasionally thrown cans of beer. When this happened they charged indiscriminately in the direction the can came from - pushing innocent bystanders on the way to the unidentified culprits. I got my first taste of pepper spray !! I’ll be happy never to get a second. And, I stopped taking pictures when I saw one of the over-zealous cops eying me. Even with a “few” beers, I was able to exhibit good judgment !!

After the parade, my new friends and I went for street meat - cow’s heart kabobs and sausages ! Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it.

In all, it was a great taste of Bolivian culture and custom.

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Then, at school on Friday morning, out of left field, I was given a promotion - Teacher-Liason to the Administration !! HUH ??? And offered an “office” job for next year. WTF ???!!! It reminded me of the line from the Godfather: “Keep your friends close, and your enemies closer.” I’d thought I was more of a pain than anything else….but apparently not !! I am giving the possibility of returning for another year verrrrrry serious consideration. Anybody want a job here ? I seem to have an “in”.

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Listening to Q107 every day - and hearing the “Let’s go to the EX” ads - makes me wonder where the winter has gone !!! Many of my friends will be back in their schools in the next week or two, and will be back in the grind two weeks today…. except for Gayle & Joyce - formerly of Maurice Cody !!! Congratulations to you two, too.

I hope everyone enjoys the remaining days of summer , and vacation.

Hasta pronto !!

I’ve been back “home” in Cochabamba for over 3 weeks already. My travels are becoming a distant memory. I hope anyone out there enjoyed reading my rambles and viewing the photos from my touring. I took almost 1500 shots - aren’t digital cameras wonderful !!!! A couple each of Machu Picchu and Iguazu Falls can also be seen on: www.tripadvisor.com (I’m Joel60). Anyone wondering where in the world to visit won’t be disappointed coming to South America. I still have several destinations in Bolivia on my list before I come home.

And so, things have returned to normal. The coldest part of the winter has passed. The days continue to be spring-like and the nights are getting more comfortable. I’ve been able to shed a few layers of sleepwear and socks, and don’t have to speed through getting dried and dressed in the mornings.

I was happy to get back to my friends here, and kids at school. They are the best part of being here. Because there were “extra” days of holiday, the Boss called everyone in for the last week for a series of Professional Development sessions. She didn’t want us to have too much paid vacation ! When I returned, she gave me a complete summary of the topics and important points covered. In the session on lesson planning she said things like: “Make detailed lesson plans but don´t rely on them, and be ready to abandon them if you get off topic and onto something interesting.” ….”Make sure you stick to the Global Plan, because you have to finish the texts, but don´t assign homework in order to stick to the schedule. The parents are complaining.” There were other presentations on Evaluation, and Teaching Reading. She neglected to tell me she used the materials I had brought and given to her for those. She told me how wonderful the sessions were and how well received they were by “everybody”. I asked all the teachers I know here and have yet to find “anybody”. It’s great to be back !!!

The public school teachers are back on strike, leaving us about the school operating. The other “American” schools follow the North American schedule and won’t be returning to class for another few weeks.

I’m enjoying going to the dentist here. The state of my teeth has been in need of much repair. I’ve had a few broken fillings and crowns replaced lately. Six teeth repaired, and a cleaning and I’m almost up to $400 in charges !!! I hope my dental plan will recognize the work done here, which would reduce my costs by half. At these prices it’s worth coming down here for the work — the vacation would be free.

Things are going to get very interesting here next week. Wednesday is Independence Day, when everyone will be united celebrating - parades, fireworks, lots of drinking … then next Sunday the 10th is the National Recall Referendum which will likely divide the country in two. The division seems to be along racial lines. The (white) Spanish community who are generally the wealthy half wants to vote “No” and remove President Evo Morales and his MAS ( Movement Toward Socialism) party from office. Since his election almost 3 years ago, he has carried out his promise to introduce a new constitution, which would give greater rights and opportunities ($$$) to the indigenous people ( Quechuan, Aymaran, and almost 3 dozen smaller groups). These represent the “Si” vote. There was supposed to be a national referendum on this new constitution, but it was cancelled as four of the districts started holding their own autonomy votes, in May and June. The power struggle between Morales, the country’s first indigenous president, and a group of pro business oriented governors - including the wealthier, gas-producing regions in the east of Latin America’s poorest nation - demanding more autonomy for their regions has forced him to put on hold some key reforms, chiefly his plan to give more power and state revenue to the indigenous majority from which he comes.

Apparently, the original rules of this vote state that the President and each of the District Prefects up for recall, must achieve the same percentage of the vote that they were last elected by. Thus, Evo must get 53.7% to remain President. This, apparently, was the first time a President was actually elected with a majority. With over a dozen political parties represented here, the Prefects actually have to achieve votes (much) less than 50%. One clipping I saw recently said: Only Cochabamba prefect Manfred Reyes, who last year challenged Morales to test his support at the polls but is now reneging on his ultimatum, is opposing the electoral battle. As an opposition prefect in the heartland of M.A.S.’s support base, Reyes knows his position is one of the most at risk.

Each side seems to have taken up the question of the Constitutionality of the vote (depending on how they projected the results, I guess), but with 4 out of 5 of the judges of the National Election Court recently resigning, a 3 vote quorum is impossible and the vote will proceed. One reporter here has commented how the “rules” for the vote change every day. He writes: The latest is that the elections officials now seem to think that the vote should go forward – a relief to know that all that public and private money spent on each side’s propaganda isn’t going to waste – but with a few modifications. Now each of the governors would either be in or out based on winning or losing a regular 50% majority instead of the complicated ´depends-on-what-you-won-with´ formula previously planned. President Morales, however, would still benefit from the old rules, letting him win even if his vote drops just below 50%. It seems to be a formula based on a rule of ¨whatever it takes to assure that everyone stays where they are.¨ How this fits in to legal and constitutional requirements is anyone’s guess. And these are just Thursday’s rules. They will likely change a few times more before the actual vote.

Also at issue is the location of the National Capital - La Paz has been the site of the National Assembly since the civil war of 1899, but a large segment want to see Sucre be restored as the Capital. Moreover, no one knows what will be the definitive reaction of the majority of the Bolivian people and also of the armed forces that, in Bolivia, have had strong participation in political activities and in some cases when the republican institutions have been threatened by communist conspiracies. Can’t wait for August 11.

One of the best things I’ve read, in writing this, comes from the President: “When some jurist tells me: ‘Evo, you are making a juridical mistake, what you are doing is illegal’, well, I do it even if it is illegal. Afterwards I tell the lawyers: ‘if it is illegal, you make it legal, that’s what you have studied for,’” added the ruler.

I’ve seen more marches and assemblies around the city and have missed many more. I have heard of blockados within the city, and have read of those traveling by bus from Cochabamba to Sucre having to get off the buses, carry their baggage through the blockade, and find a ride on the other side. Fred’s wife has made me promise to stock up on canned foods, pasta and rice, in anticipation that the situation will get worse before it gets better…

I’ll be home when I run out of tuna.

Next Saturday will be 200 days here. I haven’t started counting the days until I leave.

Hope everyone is having a good summer. I hear it’s been a little damp up there.

Before I left Toronto and thought about where I’d go for this holiday - I had The World’s Most Dangerous Road, Machu Picchu, the Nazca Lines, and Iguazu Falls on my list. Having knocked off the first three I had mixed feelings as I headed to Puerto Iguazu - that this was my last destination, but that this was going to be another incredible visit.

I was met at the airport by Miguel, from the tour company. He outlined the plan for the next couple of days and offered to arrange for a tour that afternoon to a mine in a nearby town. I thought that was a different sort of thing to do. My driver/guide, Anibal, picked me up and we were on our way. The drive to Wanda reminded me of a summer’s drive to Haliburton. The hills, the curves and the greenery all could have been at home, except for the occasional palm trees. The mine produced agates, quartz and amethyst. The tour through the tunnels was pretty cool, with deposits of crystals left in the walls for the visual effect. Not surprisingly, the tour ended at the gift shop with various gems in their natural form, and different qualities of cut and polished gems for sale. Something for your wife ? No, sorry. Your girlfriend ? No, sorry. Your Mother ? No, sorry. I did end up buying a piece of natural amethyst that was the purple-est I’ve ever seen. Anibal gave me the name of and directions to a reasonably priced restaurant, in walking distance from my hotel, for a good steak dinner. That ended up being a good tip.

Tuesday Miguel picked me about 7:45 am for the tour of the Argentinian side of Iguazu Falls. We were a small group, but I was the only non-Spanish speaker. The others were all from various Latin American countries. It was a 20 minute bus ride to Iguazu National Park. Just inside the gate I was treated to the sight of a toucan flying by… had a sudden craving for Froot Loops !! We continued to the little station for the first train of the day. Being a protected area, we rode through the sub-tropical jungle…. not a wax museum in sight. Unlike Niagara, the Foz here are spread over a wide area with numerous vantage points - not just one. Off the train and a walk along a bridge spanning the Rio Iguazu to the first vista - Garganta del Diablo (The Devil’s Throat). The guide book says, “People who doubt the theory that ‘negative ions generated by waterfalls make people happier’ might have to reconsider after visiting the Iguazu Falls.” WOW !!! The viewing platform is right at the edge of the cataract, and in places you can stand right over the edge with the falling water right under your feet. The roar of the water, the clouds of mist and the incredible scenery were absolutely amazing !! WOW !!! It’s a much narrower horseshoe than Niagara, but with different cliffs at various levels, in places. Brazil is right across the canyon. We left that spot after a while to re-board the train and a short ride to start of the Circuito Superior (Upper Trail). This pathway led along the upper cliff to different falls with names: Salto Dos Hermanas (The Two Sisters); Salto Chico (The Boy); Salto Eva; Salto San Martin; Salto Rivadavia; and, others. Each viewing platform provided another picturesque close-up of the rushing waters, as well as panoramas of the more distant falls. WOW !!

Then you go down a level and follow the Circuito Inferior, which takes you right up to the foot of the falls, we saw from above, and gets you close enough to almost reach out and touch the shower of water. WOW !! The spray at the bottom does make you appreciate your rain-wear, if you have it. Just as it was at Machu Picchu, with every few steps, it seemed to be a different perspective, and I took well over a hundred pictures, which on reviewing seem to be much the same. The beauty and majesty of this place made me question how Iguazu Falls is not on the list of Wonders of the World. Here and Zermatt, Switzerland, site of the Matterhorn, are the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen in person.

The highlight of highlights was the speedboat ride against the rapids that got so close to the foot of the falls that it was impossible to keep my eyes open with all the spray. WOW !! There were two different approaches to two of the major saltos, and we did each twice. The smart people had come prepared and were stripped down to bathing suits. I was completely soaked, and completely thrilled about it. We then had a high-speed run with the current over the rapids and downriver a while. WOW !!! And the ride was over. After climbing back up from the river, we boarded a tour truck which winded its way through the jungle, with a guide pointing out significant flora and fauna on the way back to the Visitors’ Centre. WHAT A DAY !!!!

Back at the hotel and dried off, I got a call from Miguel saying, that because Wednesday was a Brazilian national holiday, I wouldn’t be able to get the necessary visa to allow me over the border for the second portion of the tour. It took about a second to decide that I’d take the same tour again tomorrow. That turned out to be a wise move, as Tuesday’s overcast cleared up and the sky was a beautiful clear blue - and the real bonus was the rainbows in the mist at every lookout. WOW !!!! Another hundred or so pictures of the same views, but in the sunshine. This was such a fantastic day and way to end off my incredible journey.

I returned to Monday’s restaurant for my final Argentinian steak dinner and wine, savouring the last moments of this trip.

Thursday was traveling day…. five airports and three flights - Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires, change airports, onto Santa Cruz, Bolivia, and finally “home” to Cochabamba with a few days to spare before returning to school.

It’s now already been a week since I got back, and the whole trip is starting to become a distant memory - but what a memory it is !!

July 3rd - Happy Birthday Sara !!!!

Another early wake-up call to catch a cab to get to the airport for my morning flight to Buenos Aires. The ride to the airport became a bit of an adventure. Besides the morning rush-hour traffic, my cab driver found a route that avoided the expressway I had taken 3 days earlier, instead finding construction, and a detour to lead through the city centre. I got to see many sights I had missed, and the 20 minute ride lasted over an hour. At one point the driver pulled out his ID and tried to explain something to me. I just answered, “aeropuerto ahora !!” pointing to my watch. With the airport terminal finally in sight, he stopped just short of the entrance and put my backpack on the curb. Now I figured what he was saying - that he didn’t have access to the airport. He still wanted to get paid, but I kept repeating, ” Ni terminal, ni dinero !! ” We exchanged choice words in our respective languages. I put on my pack and had a 10 minute hike to the terminal. I made the 10:30 flight with some time to spare. This was a 4+ hour flight with a loss of 2 more hours, going from the Pacific to the Atlantic. After getting my bag and getting through Immigration I took a bus that first took me to a downtown terminal, and then a second bus directly to my hotel. The whole drive took almost an hour and a half - it’s a BIG city !! It was dark by the time I got settled in my room.

After getting assurances about the safety of the neighbourhood and directions to a main street, I set out in search of an Argentinian steak and wine. All I found open were a couple of corner cafes, and had to settle for a ham & cheese sandwich and a beer.

The hotel gave me a good touring map of the city and together with the guide book I went over my ideas to see the city with Pablo, at the front desk. He was extremely helpful and together we came up with a good three day touring plan. Friday was devoted to Centro - the city centre ( but I bet you figured that out).

Buenos Aires is also a big, civilized city. There are wide main commercial streets - 6 to 8 lanes of two-way traffic. Between these are 5 or 6 one-way residential streets. The traffic seems to move quite well. The stoplights go from green to orange to red, as you would expect; but also go from red to orange to green - “on your mark, get set, go !” The only suggestion I’d make to the city fathers & mothers would be to pass “Poop and Scoop” laws. I’d have been able to enjoy the sights much more if I hadn’t had to watch every step. The older, more traditional apartment buildings have the most attractive balconies. I started a picture theme of these.

Pablo had warned me of the planned protests in front of the Congreso de la Nacion. I, of course, headed straight there but arrived well ahead of the crowds. The police presence and barracades were firmly in place, as were tents set up representing different groups in the Plaza across the street. I walked and hung around a while, then proceeded on my way. I got to Avenue 9 de Julio - called the world’s widest avenue. The main feature is the Obelisco ( a miniature Washington Monument ) in the Plaza de la Republica. Near there I found Av. Lavalle, a pedestrian mall of shops and restaurants. This intersects Avenue Florida the more famous walking street. Near one end is the Galerias Pacifico (Eaton Centre) with the high class stores and incredible paintings on the ceilings that are reminiscent of the Sistene Chapel. Way cool. Not wanting to settle for a sandwich again, I went for a late afternoon steak dinner and a glass (or two) of wine. I was surprised at how busy the restaurant was at that hour. I enjoyed the long walk back to the hotel.

Saturday, I went in a different direction - to the Recoleta district. The guide book calls this the “plushest …ritzy” neighbourhood. The main attraction here is the Cementerio de la Recoleta “where, in death as in life, generations of Argentina’s elite rest in ornate splendor.” Some of the monuments are incredible, decorated with statues or intricately sculpted facades. The highlight here is the Duarte family tomb - Evita’s grave.

Outside the cemetery is a Cultural Centre with another artisan/craft market. I bought a watercolour painting of a couple dancing the Tango. I found another grill for lunch/supper for another steak and wine dinner, and walked home.

On Sundays there is an antique market at Plaza Dorrego in the “Tango District” - San Telmo. The streets in the vicinity are closed to traffic with more artisans selling their goods on the street. Closer to the Plaza, there were street entertainers attracting crowds - pantomimists, various bands and musicians, and Tango dancers. At one intersection I double-took when I saw a moustached bicycle rider waiting at the red light… now I know what I look like !! Farther along, the antiques took up several blocks. I spent several hours here trying to take it all in. Then I took a roundabout route back to the hotel to see Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada - the pink coloured presidential palace with the famous balcony where Evita hung out. I’m not sure which is the famous balcony, but I saw them all, with “Don’t Cry For Me, Argentina” playing non-stop in my head. Another late afternoon steak before heading back. This night I had a ticket for the Tango show at Senor Tango, a big nightclub. The show was spectacular -a Las Vegas-style production- and the dancers were incredible. It was a nice end to my visit here. Buenos Aires would be my second choice to find a future(?) teaching job.

Onto the grand finale (final magnífico) …..

Monday, the 30th started with another early wake-up call to get to the airport in time for my 8:00 am plane to Lima. The flight was only about an hour but the scenery out the window, over the snow-capped Andes, was magnificent. As we cleared the mountains and approached Lima, the sky became cloudy. It was the first day that hadn’t been sunny. I took a cab to my hotel and went to sleep once settled…. too many early wake up calls lately. I had previously decided that I wasn’t going to worry about seeing the sites of Lima. After nap time I went out to wander. My first impression was that this was a big, busy modern city, with lots of familiar landmarks - Starbucks, Dunkin’ Donuts, McDonald’s, KFC, Taco Bell, Pizza Hut. The crowded streets and sidewalks could have been anywhere. Even the large red and white Peruvian flags are just like ours, without the Maple Leaf. I looked in a lot of handicrafts and souvenir stores, in between Internet stops. I walked through Kennedy Park with its very unflattering statue of JFK, to another artisans’ market in the centre of the park. Had a burger & fries in a Peruvian restaurant - successfully resisting McDonald’s, and deciding to pass up on the Cuy. And another early night…

Happy Canada Day - July 1, and a 3:15 AM wake up call to be able to catch the 4:30 bus to Ica. zzzzz !!

I got dropped off at Las Dunas Hotel and Resort and was greeted by Ronny, my host and guide for the day. This was a 5 star place & I wondered what I was doing there ? Well, I was waiting for the clouds to lift so I could take my flight over the Nazca Plains to view the ancient line drawings. I got to sit in the hotel’s business centre, on the Internet, waiting for the sun. Ronny finally came and got me - time to go. It was mostly sunny with some clouds, but perfectly fine for flying. The landing strip was a 10 minute ride away and had a short wait until take-off. The plane was a six-seater and I got to sit in the co-pilot’s seat !! This was the smallest airplane I’d ever been on. After take off it was about a 20 minute trip to the Lines. The pilot tilted the wings as we flew over each design, first to one side and then the other so all of us could get a good view. The lines are not as distinct in person as they are in the enhanced photos of the postcards, guide books or the Indiana Jones movie. I had trouble locating some at first, but saw everything I supposed to - lots of trapezoids, parallel and converging lines; and, biomorphs of a spider, hummingbird, heron, condor, tree, parrot, monkey, hands, dog, and an astronaut. It was a very exciting flight that last about 90 minutes. That these are only identifiable from the air makes me like the “Chariots of the Gods” theory - ancient astronauts visited the Earth thousands of years ago.

Another thrill off my list !!

I returned to Las Dunas poolside for a luxurious buffet lunch and lounging by the pool waiting for my bus pick-up back to Lima. I got back around 9:00, went to Dunkin’ Donuts for a sandwich and went back to the hotel.

I took another easy-going day on that Wednesday, enjoying the “civilization” of Lima. Morning coffee (with diesel fumes) and the Herald Tribune at Starbucks’ sidewalk cafe, lunch at KFC, and dinner at Pizza Hut. In between all that fine dining I walked, getting lost and found, visiting a couple of Internet places, touring a couple of big supermercados and more artisan/souvenir centres. Went back for King Kong on TV, with Spanish sub-titles.

If I ever come back to South American, I’d certainly return to Peru. I’ve learned of many other interesting places to visit that I didn’t know of before. My new first-choice to find different teaching job is Cuzco.

Who knows ??

The bus ride to Cuzco was a 6 hour trip, with an hour in Puno waiting for the connecting bus. At the Bolivian-Peruvian border we had to get off the bus and walk into Peru. Because I have a Bolivian identity card, I got to pay an extra 60 Bolivianos to leave Bolivia. They literally get you coming and going here.

I arrived in Cuzco around 10:30 pm and took a cab to my hotel. The driver stopped on a dark street and led me up a steep staircase and along a couple of dark alleyways. I thought I was being set up for a mugging. To my relief, at the end of a long dark hallway was an unsigned door that opened to the lobby of my hotel !! There was a lovely jungle in the courtyard that was surrounded by the rooms. Whew !!

At breakfast, I met Sonia and Patrick from Montreal, who were traveling with their boys and were a couple of days ahead of me. They offered valuable information and advice to help me plan this portion of my exploration. We met later for a most enjoyable dinner (alpaca steak) and a couple of jugs of Pisco Sour - the National Cocktail.

I signed up for a couple of tours offered by the hotel, and headed out for my free morning in Cuzco. This is a much more modern city, despite its history, and was certainly more geared to the tourist trade. Cuzco is described as a “unique combination of colonial splendor built on hefty stone foundations of the Incas… legends tell that in the 12th century, the first Inca, Manco Capac, was charged by the ancestral sun god Inti to find the qosq’o (navel of the Earth). When he discovered such a place, he founded Cuzco.” The city was later “discovered” by Francisco Pizarro and the Spanish conquistadors in 1533, and was conquered, looted and settled. Most of the Inca temples, palaces and homes were destroyed, using their foundations on which to build Spanish buildings and Catholic Churches.

It was an easy walk (downhill) to the Plaza de Armas - the main square. It is surrounded by the Iglesia de La Compania de Jesus, the Iglesia de Jesus Maria, Cuzco’s Cathedral (built on the site of Inca Viracocha’s Palace), souvenir shops, and restaurants offering 4 X 1 “happy hour” Pisco Sours. From there I set out to find the famous 12-sided stone in one of the remaining Inca walls. Here I found different primary school classes, on a field trip to practise counting to 12. I found a small artisans’ area and bought a watercolour from one of the “art students”. I had lunch in a cafe on the perimeter of the square.

The afternoon was spent on a bus tour of the city’s main sites: Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun) which shows the best Inca stonework in the city. Little else remains as the Church of Santo Domingo was built upon the foundations; The Cathedral, with its dominating painting of The Last Supper, with the main course of Cuy (roasted guinea pig). I always thought the Last Supper was a Seder meal - and my Mom never served that !! We also traveled out to Saqsaywaman (”sexy woman”). This fortress was destroyed by the Spaniards who tore down the walls to use the blocks for their own homes. Only about 20% of the original walls remain. This was the site of a deadly battle in 1536 between the Spanish and Incas. Nowadays, on the Summer Solstice, which I just missed, a huge colourful pageant - the Festival of the Sun, or Ind Raymi - is held; Tambomachay, with its natural springs (el Bano del Inca - Inca’s Bath), also believed by the Spaniards to be the Fountain of Youth; and, Pukapukara, at the beginning of the Inca Trail leading to Machu Picchu

The next day was a full tour of The Sacred Valley of the Incas. I was fortunate to sit beside Margot, originally from Ohio, who is now working for the Nature Conservancy in Belem, Brazil at the mouth of the Amazon River. Her company was the best part of this day. The morning stops were at a couple of artisan markets, the second in Pisac. Margot’s fluency in Spanish saved me a few sols at these markets. After lunch in Urubamba, we then traveled along the Vilcanota or Wilcamayu River (Sacred River) to Ollantaytambo, considered the best surviving example of Inca city planning. Steep terraces dominate this site. There are the remains of a Sun Temple, known as the Wall of the Six Monoliths. The Incas built several storehouses out of fieldstones on the hills surrounding the city. As we were leaving, a large group of students spread out over the entire site and danced in unison to the beating of a band of drums. Pretty cool. The last stop of the day was Chinchero, another Spanish colonial church built upon Inca ruins. Margot and I met for dinner and more Pisco Sours - had beef for a change.

Saturday the 28th started with a 5:00 am wake up call to catch the 6:00 am train to Aguas Caliente - the last stop before Machu Picchu. My package included transportation to and a guided tour of Machu Picchu immediately upon arrival at the train station. The crowds were incredible on the paths in, but the first view inside was quite literally, awesome. It looked just like the postcard view I’ve seen over and over, but this was real !! I must have taken hundreds of pictures of the same thing - from a couple of steps this way or that, or up a few steps or down, or a couple of minutes later - each one from a different perspective (?). The guide was the best I’ve had, leading us to all the main features, giving a succinct and entertaining explanation. After the guided tour we were free to explore independently. The place cleared out quickly after 2:00 and was much more relaxed. We were able to sit on the terraces and just contemplate the whole scene. Just before leaving, someone called “condor !!” and I was treated to the magnificent view of the great bird gliding across the sky, for almost 5 minutes before it disappeared in the distance. I returned to Aguas Caliente before dark to find my hotel and buy my admission and bus tickets for Sunday.

The first bus up the mountain leaves at 5:30 AM, in order to get to Machu Picchu for the sunrise. The line up at that time of day was incredible. I met Shraddha, with whom I walked around on Saturday. She was traveling, recovering from working on Hillary Clinton’s primary campaign. We got on the 5th or 6th bus out, and arrived inside in the pre-dawn light. I climbed to the top terrace for my vantage point and she went to climb Huayna Picchu ( the trademark hill, mistakenly thought to be Machu Picchu). Machu Picchu is actually the mountain to your back when you are looking at the “postcard” scene. It’s amazing how I could just stare at the panorama. As the sun’s rays climbed down the mountain sides, I must have taken another hundred pictures of the same scene, each one different. Once it was full daylight, I followed the marked trail and did another circuit of the site. I sat a while on a terrace, on condor watch - peacefully, but no bird. I returned to town in time for lunch, the Euro Cup final, and the 4:30 train back to Cuzco… and early to bed.

And that’s another experience off my list of things to do/see before ….

I´m really behind in my writing…. the trip is happening faster than I can keep up. I´m in Lima today for my final day in Peru (more about that later). I decided to take a “normal” day and try to get as caught up as I can. ( I’m now “home” in Cochabamba, finishing the draft I started in Lima.)

After a good night´s sleep after the bike ride, I was picked up at my hostal by my private guide and bus. I am living richer than I am, but enjoying the temporary luxury. Maybell ( or Mabel ¿¿ ) was my guide to Tiwanaku, but didn´t remember me until I showed her my photos of that trip.

Copacabana is a nice resort town on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Supposedly it has the only public beach in the country. We arrived at the hotel (4 Stars !!!) in time for lunch. I had trucha (trout) from the Lake… first time in my life that I have voluntarily ordered a fish from a menu. It was pretty good… I´ve had it again since.

The afternoon was spent touring the famous Cathedral of Virgen de Candelaria, built between 1605 and 1820. ….. It was decorated with lots of gold that the Spanish had looted from the Incas. This church houses a black Virgen de Candelaria statue carved by the Inca ruler Tupac Yupanqui’s grandson. The statue is never moved as superstition suggests a devastating flood of Lake Titicaca if it is disturbed.

Outside the Church we came across the Priest blessing the cars - Benediciones de Movilidades. The custom is to decorate a newly purchased car and take it to the Church for blessing. The Priest was splashing holy water on the engine, inside the passenger area and on the owners´heads. I asked Maybell how people deal with lemons and accidents ? She said that the owner in those cases is blamed for having an illicit love affair and is just receiving his/her just desserts. Single people having an accident, I guess are stigmatized for life ???

We continued to Cerro Calvario, a high hill that overlooks the Lake and the town. This was a very strenuous climb up stone steps that commemorated the 14 Stations of the Cross. At intervals on the climb were stone crosses to mark the significant points in Jesus´final walk through Jerusalem on that first Good Friday. I remember the actual route through the streets of the Old City of Jerusalem to be a lot easier to walk. After a lot of breath and knee stops, we reached the top (3966 meters in altitude) and were indeed treated to a spectacular view of the town and the Lake. At the top were the usual refreshment vendors, but here also were some most peculiar stands. Shelves of toy cars, miniature houses, play money, toy luggage, baby dolls and toy animals. Once you made the climb you could “ask” for your reward that would hopefully come to fruition. Had they sold Barbie dolls, I may have taken a chance. I was just glad that I had made the climb without suffering a heart attack - my Bolivian stress test.

Dinner that night was llama steak… tastes just like seasoned, grilled meat.

The next day Maybell and I took our private boat on Lake Titicaca to the Isla del Sol. An hour and a half cruise to Cha’llapampa, at the north end of the island. The number of tourist boats en route made it seem like a naval invasion.

Once on the island we proceeded along a gently climbing path to the Inca ruins at Chincana. There are no vehicles here and the ancient stone paths are the only routes for all the tourist & livestock traffic. The entire island is covered with ancient terraces that are still cultivated. The main feature at Chincana is the Palacio del Inca, a maze of stone walls and tiny doorways known as Inkanakan Utapa - said to be built by the Inca Emperor, Tupac Yupanqui. Within the labyrinth there is a small well, believed to contain sacred water with which the Incas would purify themselves. It is said that this was an Inca monastery and seminary. On the way we stopped at a huge concave shaped rock - Tiki Khar’ka (Rock of the Puma) - which is significant in the Inca creation legend as the birthplace of the Sun and the Moon. There the god-king Viracocha and the first Incas, Manco Capac and his sister/wife (???) Mama Ocllo, mystically appeared under direct orders from the Sun, and founded the Inca Empire. Across the way is the Mesa Ceremonica, which is thought to have been the site of human and animal sacrifices.

(I’m relying on the Lonely Planet tour book for most of the historical background.)

We hiked back to the boat for box lunches and the trip to the southern port at Yumani. Along the way I did see a home equiped with solar panels on the roof. That seemed perfectly appropriate for the Isla del Sol.

Back on land we climbed the Escalera del Inca - Inca staircase (not escalator). This path parallels the flow of a natural spring, which the early Spaniards thought to be the Fountain of Youth; and, which today is vital to the residents who carry jugs up to their homes. I had to stop every 20 steps, or so, to catch my breath. The locals must have incredible lung capacity. At the top we hiked to the Templo del Inca. Although little remains of this temple, it contains the only Bolivian examples of the expert stonework comparable to the famous walls found in Cuzco.

I passed on the trip over to the Ilsa de la Luna, and enjoyed the hourlong cruise back to Copacabana. With all climbing of the paths and staircases, at an altitude over 3,800 meters, I couldn’t think of doing any more that day. Once back, I walked around the beachfront tourist area and found the Internet cafe du jour. I had the llama kebobs and a couple glasses of wine for dinner, and a great night’s sleep.

I had a free morning to wander some more before catching my bus to Cuzco.