Oblivion ??? ….. Bolivia !!!!

A quick update….details to follow

July 4, 2008 · No Comments

Just wanted to get back in touch…. I have sooooo much to catch up on.

The last two weeks have just flown by…. after the incredible bike ride, I had a week of Inca education - at Lake Titicaca, Isla del Sol, Cuzco and environs, and, the climax, Machu Picchu !!! I got to share that week with some very wonderful people I`ve met along the way. I have pages of notes and some information books to consult, for a more detailed account; and, hundreds of photos to share. Stay tuned….

I got to Lima, which is a great big city that offered a return to “civilization” - morning coffee at Starbucks, lunch at KFC, and dinner at Pizza Hut. I passed on my last opportunity to sample the Peruvian favourite cuy ( roasted guinea pig). The flight over the Nazca Lines in a 6-seater plane was another incredible thrill.

I am now in Buenos Aires enjoying the mid-winter weather - it`s a cool cloudy day in the low teens celsius…. quite comfortable for someone who knows a real winter. I`m wandering the central downtown area today…. lots to see & take in. Planning on a good steak dinner and Tango show tonight. Two more days here before my final highlight - Iguazu Falls. And then back “home” to Cochabamba next Thursday. By the way, I got word that the Minisitry of Education DID extend the holiday because of the cold and now the plans I left for the substitute teacher are ready for me to use when school resumes on the 14th (unless it`s still too cold). That`s a bonus.

Hope everyone back home is enjoying the summer and vacation.  Take care.

Hablamos pronto.

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I´m on the road again

July 1, 2008 · No Comments

Friday night, the 20th, I left on a 10:30 pm bus for La Paz. The heat was working, which I wasn´t expecting. Someone a few rows in front of me had a good snore going, and I was able to sleep with my iPod at full volume listening to Van Morrison concerts - until the police got on the bus around midnight to check identity cards and passports. Later, around 2:00 AM the bus stopped at a roadside restaurant and snack stand for a pit stop - a welcomed stop. I arrived in La Paz about 6:00, and hung around at the bus terminal for a coffee, a turn in the Internet cafe while waiting for sunrise. Took a cab to my hostal, checked in getting the same room as last visit, and got the remaining few hours of my night´s sleep.

Awake and pretty familiar with the neighbourhood, I set out to wander around. The streets here are mainly up and down some pretty steep hills. While I was sitting and catching my breath in the main square - Plaza Murillo - I was approached by a “gentleman, a tourist from Mexico”, who asked me to take his photo in the cathedral across the street. Seemed harmless, but once inside we were approached by another man claiming to be a plain-clothes policeman who wanted to take us to check our passports. This is a familiar crime  in this country. The Canadian Embassy sends out bulletins and never fails to mention “the white car scam” in which tourists are taken in a white car to a so-called Police Station and held until they withdraw all the possible funds from their bank & credit card accounts. I had a similar encounter one day in Cochabamba. I used a couple of “un-church-like” words and left them behind.

The rest of the day was more relaxed. I visited Gravity Assisted Tours and got my final instructions for Sunday s bicycle ride, wandered some more, had dinner, and early to bed.

Sunday began with a 5:00 AM wake-up call and a walk down the Prado to have breakfast at the meeting place. They had about 50 people in several groups for their rides. About two dozen were divided into two bus groups to be taken up to La Cumbra ( another 1000 feet ) for the final orientation and the start. We were given our bikes, warm outer clothing, a dust buff, gloves, goggles, a safety vest and a helmet - no parachute. We drank a toast and spilled some on our tires in an offering to Pachamama.

The ride is 64 Kilometers in length and a 3660 feet drop in altitude. The first half is on paved highway on which we were to ride 30 centimeters from the white line on the right. This is where I got (close) to going “60 when I am 60.” If I had my racer with the skinny tires, I would have made that. But considering it has been about 7 months since my last ride, and first time on a trail bike, I was not disappointed.

Then we got to “The World s Most Dangerous Road a.k.a. The Road of Death”.  Here the instructions changed because we were now on a dirt & gravel surface - we were to ride in the left side tire path (when you could see it) making sure you did not go off the cliff on the left side. The ride was sectioned into a dozen, or so, lengths. The guides explained each interval of the road that we were about to ride - highlighting the particular risks. There was a thick mist in the valley, and it was mostly impossible to see the extent of the danger - a 600 foot cliff if you went off the road !!!

The next few hours had to be the most thrilling of my life - with both hands ready on the brakes; trying to manoeuvre to stay on the tire track and out of the gravel; and trying NOT to gaze at the incredible scenery, through the fog - whizzing down this road. WHEEEEEEEEE !! WHAT A THRILL !! And the best part was getting to the end in one live piece.

It was easy to see why so many bikers, cars, buses & trucks have gone over the edge over the years. Parts of the road were that narrow ! It was hard to imagine that every vehicle did not go down. Nevertheless the ride ended in Coroico - a nice tropical town. Our destination was a resort/wildlife reserve for showers and a buffet dinner. On the way, one girl fell knocking out a front tooth and had to be taken back to La Paz. It being Sunday, and the Summer Solstice holiday, no replacement bus was available, so two bus loads crowded into one bus for a very uncomfortable ride back to La Paz. The guides bought a case of beer to appease us, which mostly worked until we had to start making frequent pit stops.

We got back to La Paz about 10:00 pm and I headed right back to the hotel for a well earned sleep - happy that I now had only 99 more things to do on my “bucket list”.

The news today was of the arrest of two men, with rifles, in Santa Cruz suspected of plotting to kill the President. But a local prosecutor ordered the men freed hours after they had been detained, citing lack of evidence. My question is whether he is left leaning supporter, or a right-wing opponent ???

 On to my Inca Trail…..

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And the hits just keep on coming !!

June 19, 2008 · No Comments

I hope any Bolivians reading this are not too offended, but (always a “but” here) this place is crazy unbelievable.

Tuesday at about 11:00 all the teachers were suddenly called to the office for an emergency meeting, in which we were told that the school HAD to be evacuated, before Seduca officials arrived - for fear that the school would be closed down permanently - if they caught us teaching. IMAGINE !!! I’m NOT sure I believe that, but that’s what the Boss told everyone. Lunch was scheduled early and the buses were to leave at 1:00. So, the winter holidays that were to begin on June 30 are ON !!! We were told that school would resume Monday, July 7 - MAYBE ??!! …. “See ya when I see ya !!”

I can’t help thinking that I could be Minister of Education for just a couple of hours and make a significant improvement in this system here. And it wouldn’t depend on which way the wind was blowing !!??!! I am becoming convinced that this country is determined to remain a Third World country, and may aspire to become a Fourth or Fifth ?? !!

So now, I’ve got a couple of extra days to get ready for my trip. That’s okay. I’m so excited at the prospects of packing up my backpack, and pretending I’m 20/30/40/50 -something again. It’s been a few years since I’ve traveled like this. Hope I’ll meet some other Peter Pans (or Tinkerbelles) on the way.

When I was downtown yesterday, I came across thousands the district’s teachers blocking the main intersections near the Post Office (which was open). Masses of teachers spending their winter holiday hanging around, blocking traffic, eating popcorn and ice cream and generally having a nice day in the springlike weather….. all under the watchful eye of the riot police, assembled up the street. What a nice way to spend the day !!!

In other news, from my Google Alert:

“Bolivia is awash with rumors about an impending right-wing coup against the elected government of president Evo Morales. ….If the ruling class persist with their attempts to overthrow the Morales government, the country could be drawn into a civil war with devastating consequences.” No one I’ve talked to has heard these rumors, but here you can expect anything. The BIG recall votes are in less than 2 months. Things should get exciting in anticipation of the August 10 voting.

Yesterday, there was more interest and excitement about Bolivia’s 4-2 win over Paraguay in a World Cup qualifying game. As soon as the game was over, the honking cars continued to parade around the streets for hours - like when the Leafs won a play-off series. Anyone else old enough to remember that ?

I’m off tomorrow night on my trip. Verrrrrrrrrrrrrry excited !!!

Happy Trails

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Another Bolivian Moment or two

June 13, 2008 · 1 Comment

Wednesday morning Fred came to my classroom saying that no one in the office wanted to deliver the news that was just received from SEDUCA - the Bolivian Department of Education. The winter holiday originally scheduled to begin on Monday, June 23, had been moved back a week to Monday, June 30. Last year the break had been extended a week, because it was too cold to have the kids sit in the unheated classrooms. I guess that some enlightened public servant came up with an idea to avoid a similar occurrence, and that some higher ranking official thought that it was a great idea. So nine days before the holiday they announced the change. What was the hurry ?

I suppose someone thought that I’d be upset that I’d have to cancel my trip arrangements, that begin next Friday night, and start over. I insisted that it was not my fault, that I had done things properly, according to the annual calendar I had been given. It wasn’t going to be my problem. Later in the afternoon when the Director finally came to the Teachers’ lunch table to “deliver” the news, she conceded that the teachers with travel arrangements would have supply teachers for that week. The others had warned me that the policy at this school, was that absent teachers would lose the pay for the days missed to pay for the substitute, but to everyone’s surprise she said I wouldn’t, in response to my insistence that I would not tolerate being penalized a single Boliviano for having done things properly. Even Lani, who worked here last year, couldn’t believe it. So, I was feeling pretty smug that I would now have a four week paid vacation and started wondering where to go for the extra week.

Then, on the drive home the yesterday I noticed that two public schools on the route didn’t have the usual activity outside. I asked one of my Bolivian colleagues in the cab what was happening. The public school teachers had gone on strike that morning, protesting the government screwing with their pensions. I couldn’t blame them.

Soon after I got home, I got a call from another of the teachers to tell that SEDUCA had just announced that the holiday had been re-rescheduled. As the schools were already empty due to the strike, instead of being postponed a week, it is now pre-poned by two weeks, and will begin at the end of classes today!! And I still get the four weeks !!!

I’m expecting more changes in the government’s decision… the wind is blowing from a different direction today.

Besides the teachers, it seems as if Strike Season is in full bloom. The highways between the main cities have been blocked by truckers protesting the rising tax on fuel; and, by miners out to protest an increase in tax on profits upon businesses. The Plaza Principal downtown was blocked by Trufi drivers for some good reason, no doubt. In La Paz there have been demonstrations outside the American Embassy protesting the granting of asylum to a former  Bolivian Defense Minister wanted here for trial. I won’t be anywhere near there next week, unless I learn the Spanish for “I’m Canadian, not American, honest !!”

The government nationalized the oil pipeline. And Iran wants to broaden ties with Bolivia…more good news !!

This place has all the trappings of a modern society - cars; paved roads; electricity; attractive, new apartment and office buildings; beautiful homes that would fit in on the Bridal Path or Thornhill; a Burger King - all in spite of those who run the country.

One good thing, was that I needed to see a dentist. I had flossed off a crown and had lost a filling that needed immediate replacing. After the first appointment was over and it was time to pay, Dr. Javier said “140″. As I was counting out American $20s he stopped me ….”no,no,no, 140 Bolivianos”. THAT’S ALMOST $20 !!! The second appointment cost 150 Bs. And on Monday he’s taking impressions for two crowns @ US$100 each. If you need major restorative dental work, the air fare here would be worth the expense. I told my kids I’m hoping to have more dental trouble while I’m here.

Anyone coming down for a visit ??

Take care everyone.

Enjoy the last days of school. Enjoy Summer in the City, or wherever you get to.

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Older !!!! and Wiser ???

May 31, 2008 · No Comments

Older - definitely & Wiser - hopefully

May is a good time for a birthday, I always thought.

This year it’s been raining May babies….

Mazel Tov to Bobby and Marlene on becoming Grandparents…Casey & Deena Savlov have added Noah Ethan to the family.

I always felt I was a pretty good uncle, but now I’m a Great-Uncle. Mazel Tov to Carrie and Adam on the safe arrival of Hannah Rachel on May 22. As well, Mazel Tov to Gayle & Mark on becoming Grandparents and to my Dad on becoming a Great-Zayde. Isn’t that great ?

And more Mazel Tovs to Andrea & Caley Feldman who welcomed Zoe Olivia Lynn on Wednesday the 28th. What a terrific day for a birthday !!!

Just as many of you are counting down the days until the end of the school year - it’s June !!! - I’m getting psyched for my winter vacation. Three weeks to go !! I’m leaving on June 21 on an ambitious itinerary. My first destination is back to La Paz to ride The Road of Death - a bicycle ride down “The World’s Most Dangerous Road” (Google it). I want to go 60 KPH on a bicycle now that I’m 60. It’s the original route from La Paz down to Coroico… 64 Km ride with a descent of 3660 m… pretty decent - check out this news report http://abcnews.go.com/Travel/Story?id=4120791&page=1 . If I survive that, then it’s back up (by car) and on to Lake Titicaca; followed by a couple of days in Cuzco; and, a visit to Machu Picchu - a legitimate Wonder of the World. Then I’m planning to be like Indiana Jones (and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull) and fly over the line drawings of the Nazca Plains; and, a couple of days in Lima. A trans-continental flight to Buenos Aires will allow me to see the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans on the same day. Almost a week in Buenos Aires and a trip to see Iguazu Falls. Hopefully there will be enough water falling to get “the Maid of the Mist-type” boat ride. And then, back to Bolivia and work. Sounds pretty good, eh ? Anyone want to join me ?

But before that, a couple of school stories:

Marks here are out of 70 , not 100%. (???) Somebody thought of this. With 35 as the dividing line between a “pass” or “failure”, it’s apparently Seduca - Department of Education - policy that we can’t give 35s. It’s neither a pass nor a failure. If a kid has earned a 35, we have to make it a 34, so parents can’t whine for the single mark to bring it up to a pass. Imagine, somebody actually thought this up too !!! The reasoning here is sometimes beyond belief…. (but then we leave out 13th floors in high rise buildings). Scream or laugh ???…. I’m trying to keep laughing !!

Then, Parent Interview Night, last Friday, was called for 6:30. We were told be be back at school by 6:20 so we would be on time. Then we were told not to start on time, because no one ever arrives on time. ??????

And then there are sometimes good ideas - next Friday is Teachers’ Day - a school holiday !! The rumour is that the boss throws a party for the staff at a restaurant somewhere. Haven’t heard anything definite yet.

Something very flattering arrived in my email today- a request from a Japanese travel magazine to publish one of my photographs from the Carnival in Oruro, for their feature on Andean festivals. I get a free copy of the magazine !! I think it’s pretty cool !

Bolivian politics in Cochabamba has quietened down somewhat. There was a protest parade that went by during my last Spanish lesson, but no sit-ins, sleep-ins, or crucifiction-ins lately.

Here’s a summary from the latest clippings:

“The referendums scheduled in Beni and Pando provinces tomorrow are the latest in a wave of autonomy votes that present the socialist president with his strongest challenge since taking office in January 2006 . The votes have also sparked fears that this impoverished nation of 9.1 million may be on the verge of division or civil war….Morales has called the referendums illegal and separatist but has so far refrained from sending in troops or police to stop the votes. Some analysts, however, speculate the government may make a stronger show of force this weekend, especially after anti-Morales activists violently prevented the president from addressing a rally in the historic capital of Sucre a week ago…..One story making the rounds is that the U.S. Ambassador to Bolivia is the real power behind the Santa Cruz autonomy movement - Ambassador Phillip Goldberg having been sent here specifically for that task after pulling off the same fete in Kosovo.”

Peace, everyone

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Civil War postponed…….for now

May 19, 2008 · No Comments

Hola todos… (or maybe, Hola cada uno)

How’s spring ? Worth waiting for ?

Here it’s still spring-like when the sun is out, but it cools considerably at night and during cloudy days. My morning shower is less leisurely and once the warm water is off, the time to get dried and dressed can be measured in seconds - brrrrr. The nights are down to single digit temperatures - I only hope I sleep through and don’t have to get out from under my covers during the night. The amount of daylight is noticeably decreasing, as are the warm times of the day. It gets dark by 6:00 pm. I can still be in a tee shirt much of the day, but need long sleeves first thing in the morning and from late afternoon. My apartment happens to be in the shadow of a neighbouring apartment building and is quite cool to cold when I’m home. I’ve had to buy new old sweatshirts in the cancha.

In case anyone is wondering where the clothing you’ve donated to charity ends up, I’m buying it back. So far, I’ve happily bought “Carolina” and “Yankees” hooded sweatshirts, and I check out the new arrivals whenever I’m downtown. I’ve also been buying new old paperbacks( Goosebumps, Junie B. Jones, etc) for my class at a store that sells used kitchen utensils and used English books. Go figure ! I also got a carrot peeler there. Keep depositing your old stuff in the donation boxes so I can continue to buy back some useful things. I’ll redonate them before I leave, or when I get home. I think of how the weeded books and discarded computers from Essex could modernize this fortunate private school, let alone the needy public schools here. We don’t have many, if any, books younger than my own children in the Library here. We do have two computers connected to the Internet to facilitate research. I threw away better (obsolete) equipment before I left.

Last week was designated for “Reinforcement”. We were to teach something we’d already taught (and reviewed for the exams) in a “different way”. I had my class do a Math survey and a Science research project this week. It’s absolutely amazing how excited they were about doing this kind of work. The current Academic Director has asked me to do a workshop/presentation on activity-based learning activities; and, on the reading comprehension strategies I’m using with my class. Those at Essex, reading this, should know that I’m using many of the ideas presented to us in the OFIP (I forget what that means) workshops last year. Everyone at home should know that their tax dollars are being put to good use - here in Cochabamba, Bolivia.

Today I get to start teaching something new again, after a three week hiatus. Friday are Parent - Teacher interviews. I have to be back at school for 6:30 when all the parents are to arrive. I suggested that parents be scheduled at 15 minute intervals, but “that’s not the way we do it.”

The personnel merry-go-round at this school continues…..UNBELIEVABLE !! With 3 &1/2 months, I’m already one of the senior (not just age, but time served) members here. We’re about to get our 5th grade 3 teacher; a new high school Biology teacher; and, much to my chagrin, my friend Fred is going to half-time, before going to no-time. The score is currently FIVE Grade three teachers, to THREE school secretaries, to THREE Academic Directors to TWO Biology teachers to TWO Geography teachers to ONE Grade 5 teacher….and that’s after just 3+ months !! I may be home well before December.

I’ve got to be careful what I write about this school. I’m not sure who’s reading this….”hola amigos”.

I’ve been thinking that foreigners should be entitled to celebrate their national holidays. It’s hard to explain why May Two-Four falls on the 19th this year. Hope everyone enjoys the day, although it sounds as if the cottagers will be breaking lake ice this morning. Thursday is a holiday here - Corpus Christi. I’m planning on celebrating by going to see the new Indiana Jones movie, while everyone is at church (???)….first time in English and then again in Spanish.

I’m continuing to meet Marisol for Spanish lessons, once or twice a week. I can tell you about my Family and what I like to do on weekends. I’m waiting for the lesson on meeting women. The Department of “Foreign Affairs” isn’t offering any help in this regard.

The political situation in this country remains problematic. The previous tension about the referendum in Santa Cruz never seemed to amount to much. The pro-autonomy side there won overwhelmingly. Since then, the President, Evo Morales, has called for a country-wide recall vote, as a confidence measure to continue his mandate (of 2 years), or to call a new election. The same applies to the various district (provincial) leaders. August 10th is scheduled for that vote. It’s an election whether to call an election. It should be an “interesting” time between now and then. My friend Nick, has speculated that Morales has called the recall vote in the hope that he loses, and gets to retire. I certainly understand that sentiment. It’s big news here, but it hasn’t made the Star as far as I’ve seen.

You can’t appreciate the power of the Internet until you go away from home for an extended time. I’m able to respond immediately to my family’s and friends’ messages. With MSN Messenger and Skype I can talk in real time, to anyone, at NO cost. I listen to all the Jays’ baseball games; all the hockey playoff games; all the Toronto radio stations I want; and, read any Toronto newspaper every day. The world is not as big as it once was.

Email, Messenger, Skype me…I’ve even got a surface mail address ( PO Box 2747, Cochabamba, Bolivia )

Happy Victoria Day !

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May the 4th be with you

May 3, 2008 · 1 Comment

I always liked that line…..together with Mr. Spock’s, “Live long and prosper.”

It’s been a few weeks since my last ramble ……

Firstly, I want to wish cousin Paul - “Feliz Cumpleaños” - on hitting the BIG SIX-OH. There was a time that 60 sounded really old…but not anymore !!! I hope you had a great day - I left messages around, but didn’t get to speak to you….many more in good health…. I’m savouring my last weeks of my fifties.

Yesterday marked my hundredth day here. I’ve remarked how the time is passing so quickly, and this benchmark is certainly another indicator. But also, it’s hard to imagine how at home I feel here. Certainly my world is confined to where I go and what I do, but I am very comfortable going there and doing it. The circle of familiar places is widening, and there are more and more friendly faces to greet along the way. I’m even running into people I know on the streets !

I’ve stated Spanish lessons, with Marisol, Lani’s tutor. We supposedly are teaching each other. She is getting ready to take the Teosl exam. I am almost fluent - if you want to know my name and how I’m feeling, as long as I’m feeling fine. “Buenos dias/tardes/noches. Me llamo Joel. Mucho gusto. Yo muy bien.”

School is at the one-third mark…end of the first trimester. We are in a two week period of Evaluation - exams and review, BUT NO NEW TEACHING !!! Lots of marking for the next week…UGH !! Once exams are over, we have a week of Reinforcement, again NO NEW TEACHING !!! After these two weeks of reviewing for exams, I’m to select parts of the curriculum that I’ve already covered ( and reviewed ) and reteach it. ?????? I’m not sure if this is Bolivian policy, or just the way it’s done at Tito’s Place. By the way, the current scorecard here is: four grade 3 teachers to three academic directors to two secretaries !! The trick, I think, is to stay out of the office. Can’t find anyone to bet on the “over” for the new academic director. Over the years, with all the Principals and Vice Principals I’ve worked for, I’ve always noted the difference between working for a leader and working for a boss….definitely have another boss here !! Not too many leaders around.

One bout of Bolivian reality occurred last Friday when Fred, Nick and I met at one of the outdoor restaurants on the Prado for our final time together for a few months. Nick’s program is ending and he’s to return to the States shortly. After a few hours, a few beers, and a few street kids, peddling their wares, making their usual rounds through the tables, Nick looked down for his bag - but it was gone. It had been a souvenir from when he was a delegate to the Democratic Party convention, and, had lots of lecture notes, various scholarly items he was working on, and other class materials. It was a great loss for him and his students…fortunately there was no money, or personal identification documents. It just goes to show how skilled the street thieves are.

Today is a BIG day in this country. This is what I received from the Canadian Foreign Affairs Emergency Operations Centre:
OFFICIAL WARNING: Foreign Affairs and International Trade Canada advises against non-essential travel to the Department of Santa Cruz because of political tensions regarding Bolivia’s referendum on regional autonomy which is scheduled for May 4, 2008. This referendum is opposed by the Government and its supporters as unconstitutional. There are risks of public protests during the period prior to and following this date. Similar referendums are expected in June 2008 for the Departments of Tarija, Beni and Pando.
Road blockades are common during times of protest, affecting transportation and limiting access to services and amenities. Canadians should avoid demonstrations at all times and not attempt to pass through roadblocks, and they should also monitor local news reports. The road from Santa Cruz to the border with Argentina and the roads leading to La Paz’s International airport, located in El Alto, are particularly vulnerable to blockades.

When I registered with Foreign Affairs I had hoped that it was some sort of dating service; but seriously, if you are ever going to spend a significant time in a foreign country I strongly advise that you register with the Canadian embassy or consulate. You can do so on-line…. here’s the link: http://www.voyage.gc.ca/main/sos/roca_notice-en.asp

There’s lots of apprehension here….no one is quite sure what to expect. I’m going to give you an idea of what I know with a series of headlines and quotes I’ve seen in different recent news articles:

- The spectre of violence, possibly even a civil war, is hanging heavy over Bolivia ahead of an autonomy vote on Sunday by its richest province that the government has declared illegal.

- Bolivia is bracing for a weekend vote on autonomy by one of its opposition-run provinces that many fear could send the Latin American nation into violent turmoil….Local authorities in Santa Cruz, a territory rich in natural gas that counts as the wealthiest of Bolivia’s nine provinces, are expected to win overwhelming backing in the referendum. If it is passed, they plan to implement statutes giving them greater control over the region’s finances, and the right to create their own security force….Sunday’s referendum is mostly a reaction to Morales’s determined push to revise the constitution to give more power and wealth to the indigenous population.

- The crisis was triggered by Morales’s plans to overhaul Bolivia’s constitution to redistribute much of the wealth of the eastern provinces to the poorer Andean highlands. The conflict has taken on an ethnic context, pitting the poor indigenous majority of the mountainous area against the richer, ethnically mixed descendants in the lower provinces.

- Morales, the country’s first indigenous president, counters that he needs a strong central government to spread Santa Cruz’s wealth to the rest of South America’s poorest country….He has proposed a constitution that would outline a detailed bill of rights and considerable autonomy for the country’s 36 indigenous groups. The constitution has yet to go to voters.

- In all kinds of political and social circles here one hears in ominous whispered tones the words, civil war. No question, the situation is delicate and dangerous….The real danger of violence – and it is real – is from unexpected explosions where rival sides will find themselves in physical proximity to one another.

- In Bolivia there is an all-out power struggle between the poor, indigenous majority and the wealthier people of European origin in the country’s east. That struggle is to come to a head Sunday when the one million residents of the province of Santa Cruz de la Sierra go to the polls in a referendum seeking greater autonomy for the wealthy region. Observers are not prepared to rule out a break-up of the Andean country of nine million people…The issue over control of profits from the area’s rich natural resources has also been key in the ongoing nationalization of the country’s energy resources….The president seems determined to have his way whatever the cost, observers noted.

- The wealthy white governor stood beneath a giant statue of Jesus and promised freedom to the tens of thousands cheering him on — freedom from a llama herder-turned-president who reveres the Indian earth goddess Pachamama….”Autonomy! Autonomy!” the crowd screamed, waving flags bearing the cross of Santa Cruz state….But the reasons why a referendum Sunday asking voters to approve a broad declaration of autonomy is expected to pass in a landslide have more to do with divisions of culture and race that have tormented Bolivia for centuries….Many white and mixed-race middle-class Bolivians here feel that President Evo Morales, the nation’s first Indian president, doesn’t represent them.

- Bolivian military warns against autonomy vote….The declaration heightens the stakes of Sunday’s vote in opposition-controlled Santa Cruz, which many fear could trigger widespread violence, possibly even military intervention.

- Some fear that the years of built-up frustration could spill out into streets Sunday. Both sides have vowed that they won’t start a fight, but it’s not hard to find evidence of a combative edge to the conflict. Buildings all over the city are covered with graffiti that speaks the words few Cruceños — the term for people from this region — are saying aloud: “Resist or Die!”….”To Your Guns, Cruceños!”

I think I’m going to follow my student, Arturo’s advice: Meester Joel..you shouldn’t go out on Sunday !

I wonder if this news will even make it to The Toronto Star ? The Sun ??????

So what’s new at home ? I hope everyone is enjoying spring. Are the forsythia in bloom yet ?

Que le vaya bien.

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Hag Sameach

April 19, 2008 · No Comments

Wishing everyone health and happiness with the beginning of Pesach tonight.

I’m feeling a bit strange that this will be the first year that I will not be at a Seder table. I will be “with” my family tonight via the Internet and web cam. But, I am already missing the matzah, horseradish, gefilte fish, meatballs, and the rest of the dinner celebration.

Together with the arrival of Spring, (and the hockey playoffs) always made this a special holiday.

All the best everyone.

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Just rambling, man

April 11, 2008 · 4 Comments

Hooray !! I’ve got my visa ! I can stay here legally until next March - after two months, one bribe, and 2 photo sittings, 3 sets of fingerprints, thousands of Bolivianos, and countless mananas. (Now that I’m connected at home and don’t frequent the Internet cafes, I don’t have the Spanish keyboard with the Spanish punctuation.) Two days later, after 2 more sets of fingerprints and another 2 different photos I picked up my identity card. Whew ! Nurem, my visa guy, says that getting an additional year is a lot cheaper and easier. I’m not convinced yet about another year here.
Now that it’s spring in Toronto, makes me particularly homesick. My bicycle rides every day through Mt. Pleasant Cemetery - seeing spring unfold day by day, are among my favourite times at home. It’s almost time for the forsythia and magnolia trees to bloom. Next year, maybe.

The weather has cleared here…the rain has stopped…and who needs windshield wipers ?

When I said that strike season has started, I wasn’t kidding. The political situation here is really screwed up. Evo Morales, el Presidente, is trying to accomplish a socialist revolution of sorts. Currently, there is a new constitution being proposed, that would take much from the rich overclass, and supposedly redistribute the wealth and property to the masses. Some of my earlier photos have shown some of the supporters /protesters. I promise to read the constitution draft as soon as I finish the school rules. The various “provinces” with the non-socialist governors have been threatening to declare autonomy from the national government. The Cochabamba district has tables set up in a couple places I know of to get people to sign petitions supporting autonomy from the La Paz government. Maybe I’ll try out my new ID card to see if I can sign up (or get deported).
There was supposed to be a national referendum on the constitution on May 4, but the supreme court quashed that. Still, a couple of the provinces are holding referenda that day to force the autonomy question. Santa Cruz, the richest of the districts, and most vocal in opposition to Evo’s plan has been prohibited from shipping cooking oil to the rest of the country. ????? This is Evo’s punishment for opposing the new constitution. Since Monday, all the highways have been blocked - the blockados - essentially shutting down all travel and transport between cities. It’s a giant staring contest, waiting to see who blinks first.
The post office - there’s one in Cochabamba - has been closed by striking workers for the past 11 days. There is no door to door delivery here and so no one has been receiving or mailing anything. I hope that Canada Revenue Agency will accept my excuse for my late tax return.
This school is similarly crazy. Tomorrow is Sports Day - when all the classes are to parade around the concrete soccer field, representing different Olympic events. My class’ is fencing. Our poster has the slogan - “Think sharp…Get the point !” A construction crew has been working furiously to complete the tin canopy over the “field”. We held the dress rehearsal this afternoon, while the welders were up above trying to get the job completed - or they weren’t going to be paid in full.

I have to be there at 8:30 on a Saturday morning, but the festivities are to end in time so they don’t have to serve us lunch.

Earlier this week, my Camila arrived 5 minutes late, and we waited for her to get settled in for the first period Math lesson. The Academic Director, who must have seen her arrive from the office window, came, interrupted the lesson, and took her to the office, where she had to serve an immediate detention - to teach her a lesson. Her mother drives her to school. The philosophy here is that it’s better to miss an entire lesson than just 5 minutes. ????? Maybe it’s one of the 142 rules, but I wanted to ask the Director why she thought that was a good idea - but she quit (or got fired) today before I got a chance !! Now I’m wondering if, by the end of the year, we’ll have had more grade 3 teachers or more Academic Directors. ????? The tally will be 4 to 3, once the replacement is hired.

So, how’s everything at home ? Enjoying Spring ?

Take care everyone - forget the cards & letters, but do email….MSN…..Skype

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Where’s the beef ? ….everywhere it seems !!

April 2, 2008 · 1 Comment

I’m feeling right at home, sort of. Now that I’m connected to the Internet, I’ve been able to listen to my usual Toronto radio stations and keep current with the news. As well, I’ve signed up to be able to listen to every major league baseball game. Go Jays Go !!! So, I hear that the TTC has voted to strike, and that the Toronto Board is planning to ban homework. And I thought Bolivia was screwed up !

Guess what ? There was the threat of a public transit strike in Cochabamba the last couple of days, too !! But here, not only do the bus and trufi-taxi drivers withdraw services, they also aim to disrupt everyone else’s lives with strategic “blockados” at the bridges and at major intersections. I had to call my boss the last two mornings for the news update - to see whether the strike is on, and whether the Ministry of Education had canceled school or not. But the issues were settled last night, and life remains normal for the time being. One of the teachers was saying that now that the Easter holidays are done, strike season has begun. I’ll have to see who has the next protest.

Maybe a trufi-taxi strike would have been a good idea, today. This was the first day since I arrived that has rained all day. The drive to school was more thrilling than any ride I’ve been on at the CNE or Canada’s Wonderland. The car that I flagged down didn’t have windshield wipers or a defroster !! The driver had a roll of toilet paper to clear the inside & reached out the window with a squeegee to wipe away the water. Neither was too effective as he kept up with the flow of the traffic, swerving to the curb lane to pick up and drop off riders. We drove blindly through the flooded sections of the roads, sending huge sprays off both sides, getting other cars and pedestrians. There was lots of honking directed at him, but he just honked along with the others. He wasn’t able to see the frequent speed bumps, adding to the thrill of the ride. Amazingly, he made all the stops and turns, and I got to the roadway leading to school. I was ready to pay double the fare - partly for getting out safely, and partly for one of the scariest rides I’ve been on. I took a couple of pictures to remember the view out the front window. I’m sure glad the rainy season is due to end soon !

To borrow from a classic Wizard of Id comic strip - “The students are revolting ! - They’re downright disgusting !” I’ve already shared some photos of various student demonstrations and blockados. From what I’ve been told, there are two main issues that the students have. They want free tuition and no entrance requirements to university. Who wouldn’t ?? They have sat down in main intersections, with the police diverting traffic around the affected areas; continued sleep-ins in front of the universities’ offices; marched down the streets at all hours; and, some have feigned crucifiction in the main square. I haven’t heard how negotiations are progressing. I’ll keep you posted.

A couple of things at school are worth sharing. A little while ago I received, and had to sign for, a 29 page document containing 142 “articulos”, in 26 “capitulos” of the “Reglamentos Interno” at Tito’s Place. We have to sign that we have received every notice, so we can’t claim ignorance. This document is in Spanish, and I assured the secretary that I will finish reading it before I leave in December. I can’t image the new proposed Bolivian constitution is as complicated. The other new development was the appearance of Big Brother a fingerprint reading machine at the sign in book. We’re supposed to check in and out by placing the “registered” digit on the touch pad, and to then write down the exact time shown on the screen, in the old handwritten register. Guess which finger I used ? Such high tech, and there isn’t a reference book in the Library younger than 25 years old ! The values here are certainly quite puzzling interesting !

My class is going well, and I’m very happy to shut the door and just teach these kids.

Some bad news - there’s no more Wednesday night jazz ! I missed two weeks ago when I was in La Paz, and hoped they had only taken a night off when I was disappointed last week. I took the long way home today, and went by the restaurant to check it out. Carlos and Freddy are no longer booked to play there. Too bad !! At least I’ll have the Jays’ games to listen to.

I’ve been on a few video calls lately, using Skype and MSN Messenger. It’s been great to see and speak to people from home. My Skype ID is: its.dad …..and my MSN ID is: its.dad@hotmail.com My webcam is plugged in and ready to go. I’d love to see and speak to you. OtherWISE, please write me at jswise@yahoo.com

Hope everyone is enjoying the spring weather up there…… I’m missing the bicycle season.

Be well everybody. Hasta luego

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